Overheating du to RX480

VW_Factor said:
I'm currently working with one of these (non-Nitro however I assume). The fans don't even spin at idle. I'm guessing this behavior doesn't carry over with the Nitro?
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The Nitro does stop the fans, but they start at 53 degrees Celcius.
I would troubleshooting this machine thinking heat was an issue as well.

Its a Zalman Z1 something or another.

2 x 140 intake and 1 x 120 exhaust + PSU.

All weekend ran Folding@Home at full tilt, side panel on, CPU touched 72c and GPU just under 80c. Nothing downclocked, and machine didn't crash.

You're getting worse temps than this I guess?
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My machine doesn't crash now as I have raised the fan speed, but yes, this is an older case and only supports 80mm fans (but quite a lot of them). And yes, 80mm fans make more noise and move less air and that alone could be a good reason to upgrade the case.

I just don't want to spend much on a case as I am never going to show it to anyone. :-P
 
You can get a case for less than $50 that can accept 120mm fans and has decent airflow. Case design has come a long way over the past decade and a half. It's probably worth the upgrade.
 
Nagorak said:
You can get a case for less than $50 that can accept 120mm fans and has decent airflow. Case design has come a long way over the past decade and a half. It's probably worth the upgrade.
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Very much so.

Thin, hidden cables on the back side of the mobo,
line of sight front to back airflow with front and back fans, etc, etc...

Also green/blue/red leds :bleh:
 
I have now bought a Fractal Design Define R5 case and it has two fans included. I moved my hardware to that case and the result is so bad I fear I have to switch back! :-(

Within minuted of starting WoW, the system locks up with static image and repeating sound pattern. Hardware reset is necessary. Prior to that, the GPU read 74 deg C and the onboard sensors read 31 (MB), 46 (CPU) and 45 (IOH). None of those temperatures should matter (didn't before; they are actually lower). My harddrives are all much cooler than before.

I am fairly certain this is an overheating issue, but I don't know where. The reason that I am pretty sure this is overheating issue, is that my PC cannot boot without BSOD until approx 10 minutes later.

The fans push 68 CFM (one in, one out), but even with the side panel open, the lockups keep happening.

I don't have a large external fan that I experimentally could setup to blow on the open case, but I am tempted to buy one just to test it.

I guess I should do some stability testing, first CPU, then memory, then GPU, then in combination, just to see what triggers the lockups.

Suggestions for which apps I could use for this?

A thermal imaging system would be nice to have now...
 
Your lockups are likely not heat related.

Check all the PSU connectors. Make sure all the tiny fingers in there are gripping well, when plugged into their mates. I'm not talking about the firmness from the plastic here, use small pliers if needed and lightly squeeze the metal fingers tighter if needed.

Specifically, for GPU (these get unplugged and replugged a lot and over time will loose grip).

The Extra CPU power plug and the main MOBO plug can all cause this. Its not often, but I've seen it, experienced it myself and its a super easy fix. Just be gentle.

This can help rule at least this portion out.

Afterwards, use a mem test tool and check your RAM. Depending on the amount of RAM this will take some time. Let it run its course. Also feel your RAM during testing, is it simply warm or is it hot to the touch? Other things like the heatsinks on the motherboard can over time loose their seat on the chips they are meant to cool. Check that as well if you can.

Then, disable things. Go into BIOS disable onboard sound. One thing at a time, see if the problem still exists.

After what you've done you're almost in the area of hardware issue, and it sounds like it may be a tough gremlin to catch.
 
Yeah, this can't be heat related--not unless either your CPU heatsink or GPU heatsink are totally not making contact. Even if the fan isn't running at all you shouldn't lock up within that short of a time due to heat.

The fact you can't get the computer running again for 10 minutes afterwards makes me suspect either the PSU, or connections as mentioned above, or the caps on the motherboard. About a decade ago my sister's computer had a problem where it would sometimes just shut off during heavy use, and it couldn't be used again for about 10 minutes. I believe in that case the problem was the motherboard, although it's been so long now I can't remember for certain.
 
Nagorak said:
Yeah, this can't be heat related--not unless either your CPU heatsink or GPU heatsink are totally not making contact. Even if the fan isn't running at all you shouldn't lock up within that short of a time due to heat.

The fact you can't get the computer running again for 10 minutes afterwards makes me suspect either the PSU, or connections as mentioned above, or the caps on the motherboard. About a decade ago my sister's computer had a problem where it would sometimes just shut off during heavy use, and it couldn't be used again for about 10 minutes. I believe in that case the problem was the motherboard, although it's been so long now I can't remember for certain.
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I have thought that it could be the PSU, but I sincerely hope not as it was kind of expensive (Seasonic X-750).

But regardless of how I look at this, it has to be a heat issue. If it was a bad connection, I would not get a delayed reaction but rather an instant reaction. It if was a software problem, it should be gone after a reboot.

I have since my last post ran Prime95 without problems and did a memory test, also without problems. I have tried Furmark and that triggers the problem, after a while.

The PSU fans only spin under load but perhaps the sensor that should make the fans spin is defective. In that case, it would explain what I experience. I'll see if I can make the PSU fan spin or use an external fan to help the PSU cool.
 
Are you still running on x58 & 1st gen i7? My friend on his old DFI x58 had to upgrade his BIOS to use a 7970 3GB without crashes, but I'm not sure that applies to you.
 
FiggyG said:
Are you still running on x58 & 1st gen i7? My friend on his old DFI x58 had to upgrade his BIOS to use a 7970 3GB without crashes, but I'm not sure that applies to you.
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Yeah, I am (Gigabyte EX58-UD3R v1 and i7-920). CPU seems to be sufficient for pretty much everything I need and I have 12GB tripplechannel RAM and thus in no real hurry to upgrade.

I did try to recode some videos and that was very slow. This should run approx 4-6 times faster on newer cpus. But for games, it seems plenty fast enough.

Besides, upgrading means having to mess with Windows 10 activation and I don't know how easy that is going to be.
 
Galmok said:
Yeah, I am (Gigabyte EX58-UD3R v1 and i7-920). CPU seems to be sufficient for pretty much everything I need and I have 12GB tripplechannel RAM and thus in no real hurry to upgrade.

I did try to recode some videos and that was very slow. This should run approx 4-6 times faster on newer cpus. But for games, it seems plenty fast enough.

Besides, upgrading means having to mess with Windows 10 activation and I don't know how easy that is going to be.
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slmgr.vbs /dlv in cmd prompt to see what channel yer on.

If it says Retail you have every right to switch your hardware without cause for concern. I did it going from 2500k Z68 mobo to a 6600k and a Z170 mobo.

Also Windows 10 Anniversary Edition made strides to improve reactivating on new hardware. Just make sure you tie your entitlement to your Windows Live/Microsoft Account (NOT the same as signing in using said account and then using it as your login for Win10) and it should be pretty easy to do.

http://www.windowscentral.com/how-re-activate-windows-10-after-hardware-change
 
I'm not sure whether that method of checking the license accurate. I upgraded from an OEM and it thinks I'm on retail, but it definitely was an OEM copy.
 
Galmok said:
But regardless of how I look at this, it has to be a heat issue. If it was a bad connection, I would not get a delayed reaction but rather an instant reaction.
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Negative. Loose connectors generate heat overtime adding resistance. Sometimes only showing up after applying a load.

The temps you posted were good, but those are only things that are easily monitored. If it is a temp issue, you need to check those others parts manually.

Have you felt RAM and motherboard heatsinks yet?

If they either feel too warm or too cool (heatsink lost thermal contact with chip) it could indicate a problem.
 
I checked them and they felt normal, i.e. slightly warm to the touch. The cpu fan alterates in speed to adjust for the increase in load, keeping the cpu cool at any load. This seems to work. The heatsinks on the motherboard (northbridge, VRM, something else) are temperate, matching the readings. The GPU also matches the readings fine.

My only uncertainty here is the PSU. I have currently placed an external fan (one of the old 80mm) at the exhaust of the PSU to force air through it and it seems to help. I am now able to actually play WoW... for a while. Could indicate the PSU has issues with the fans, but I am not done testing that theory yet.
 
Galmok said:
I checked them and they felt normal, i.e. slightly warm to the touch. The cpu fan alterates in speed to adjust for the increase in load, keeping the cpu cool at any load. This seems to work. The heatsinks on the motherboard (northbridge, VRM, something else) are temperate, matching the readings. The GPU also matches the readings fine.

My only uncertainty here is the PSU. I have currently placed an external fan (one of the old 80mm) at the exhaust of the PSU to force air through it and it seems to help. I am now able to actually play WoW... for a while. Could indicate the PSU has issues with the fans, but I am not done testing that theory yet.
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If you're that far into it, take the PSU apart and check the internals.

Bulging caps and dried thermal pastes between heatsinks and parts do happen in PSUs. Even some decent PSUs aren't immune. I've repaired a few myself, the thermal pastes are far easier and quicker.. However if you're not comfortable soldering, just replace it with a new PSU.

I say this, given that the extra airflow through the PSU seemed to help, so keep going on that.
 
I added one more fan to the case and now it is stable. It seems the gpu card cannot keep itself cool with the side off. The PSU appears to be working fine.

Thanks for all the hints. :)
 
Playing with the GTR BE here and its hitting 75c at 2200 rpm on the fans at 1338 load. Ill have to look around to see if I can oc it safely as Id love to get 1400 out of it but dont want those temps to go up too much. And thats in a cool winter seasoned room. Not sure about toying with core voltage as it seems to do that automatically as well according to hwinfo.

Upside it stays at 1338 when on load. Doom Vulkan Ultra 1080p is giving me about 50% more fps with the FX 8350 and RX 480 than over the old phenom 2 965 and R 290 non x. Minimum fps are much higher and graphically heavy areas also are perfectly fluid now with no dips. Up to 160 fps...

Looking forward to trying out Fallout 4 with high res texture pack.
 
You're probably seeing a much larger increase from the CPU upgrade than the GPU. Even the R290 had to be bottlenecked at 1080P with that Phenom2 965.
 
Nunz said:
You're probably seeing a much larger increase from the CPU upgrade than the GPU. Even the R290 had to be bottlenecked at 1080P with that Phenom2 965.
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Well a lot of reviews said core for core the FX 8350 had near same ipc as Phenom 2 but there is the speed diff of 3.4 ghz vs 4.0 ghz for sure... Im thinking the added instructions in the 8350 also made a bigger diff than many reviewers cared to admit would work overtime.
 
Well Im impressed got 1400 stable so far out of the GTR BE. Changed the max temps from 90 (wtf wattman) to 75 with target 70 and its easily met. Really creepy to see the fans go down to 0 at under 60c... left the voltage to automatic and ram at 2000. Now If I can figure out the odd crashes in World of Tanks Id be happy. Lot less in older drivers than new but its still the odd crash to desktop.

I hope its not VSR. I have it on at the moment and really like it.

BTW have no idea why Bethesda asked for a 1080 to run its high res texture pack. Buddies 970 runs it fine.
 
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