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Originally posted by BababooeyHTJ View PostHow hard is it inserting four video cards at once? What about removing them?
Pretty hard if they're all connected together, even if the tubing extensions between each card are adjustable, as i have to line all 4 of them to the PCI-e slots at the same time, and make sure the retention mechanism on the motherboard for the PCI-e slots locks all 4 of them them into place at the same time....
It's one of the reasons why i like the horizontal placement of the motherboard tray on the case i linked above, wich will make said problem a lot easier to deal with...
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Originally posted by shadow001 View PostPretty hard if they're all connected together, even if the tubing extensions between each card are adjustable, as i have to line all 4 of them to the PCI-e slots at the same time, and make sure the retention mechanism on the motherboard for the PCI-e slots locks all 4 of them them into place at the same time....
It's one of the reasons why i like the horizontal placement of the motherboard tray on the case i linked above, wich will make said problem a lot easier to deal with...
Sorry about all of the questions. I'm debating water cooling my cards and it looks like a bit of a pita with crossfire. Thats the only part that I'm worried about.Originally posted by ManglerGood work guys, we can't have too many positive posts in a row on this forum.
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Wired Xbox controller is in. NHL and HALO are the only titles left for me to need my xbox now.
CPU-Z Validated system specs
Sh4dowGr1p on BF3
Samsung 43" 3D PLASMA PN43D490 l XBOX 360 20GB - PS3 40GB - Saitek Eclipse | My Games | Panasonic 37" TC-37LZ800
Intel i5-3570k OC'ed / Zalman 9900MAX
Gigabyte GTX 670 OC
ASRock Z68 Extreme3 Gen3 motherboard
G.Skill Ares 16GB 4x4GB DDR3 1600 @1800 2 orange and 2 blue
Patriot Wildfire & OCZ VERTEX 3 (120GB SSDs) / Western Digital 500GB 32MB cache / Maxtor 100GB External
Samsung SH-S183L DVD Burner
ASUS XONAR DG 5.1 SOUND CARD /CM Storm 5.1 HEADSET 7.1 in UBS
NZXT Phantom 410 / PC P&C SILENCER MK II 750W 80+Silver
Samsung PN43D490 720p Plasma - Dell UltraSharp 2007WFP - 1907FP
Panasonic 5.1 HT - Saitek Eclipse - Logitech Elite keyboard - Logitech Mx518 - Logitech MOMO wheel
Windows 7 Pro 64 bit
Gigabyte mobo
Intel Core 2 Duo
EVGA 7800GT
GSkill 4GB 2x2
DELL 19" LCD
Seagate 120GB
Pioneer DVD Burner
Logitech Elite
Windows 7 Pro
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Originally posted by BababooeyHTJ View PostAre there any tricks that you've picked up in doing this? Do you lay the case on the side to install the cards? How do those tubing extensions work?
Sorry about all of the questions. I'm debating water cooling my cards and it looks like a bit of a pita with crossfire. Thats the only part that I'm worried about.
With my current case being as large as it is, and quite heavy with all the water cooling gear in it( think close to 100 lbs fully assembled and filled with cooling fluid), it is much easier to install all 4 video cards with the case layed on it's side, but a strong table is definitely required....
The metal tubes between each card are adjustable, and the other tricky part is that you keep them loose and only lock them to their final position once the cards are connected and locked to the PCI-e slots themselves, and the backplate on each video card is lined up in the hole where the thumscrews are tightened....
It is a pita indeed and requires patience.... Builds like these aren't something you rush and you should double and triple check everything possible before moving to the next part of the build.
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Originally posted by Roadhog_ View PostPretty easy here (removable motherboard tray).
Building a water cooling loop is pretty straight forward if you have half a brain and can operate a screw driver.
It all depends how complex the build is in the end.....If you end up using 5 radiators with 20+ fans, 4 pumps, cooling 2 CPU's and the motherboard and the VRM's for each CPU, along with 4 video cards and extra reservoirs, and the fan controlers and 2 PSU's with all the fittings and tubing requirements while making it all look good, it's not quite that easy anymore....
This upcoming build will make my current one look easy by comparison basically...
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Originally posted by Mangler View Post?
The upcoming build should be easier if you're using a cube case.
For certain aspects it is, but there will be a higher number of radiators, more tubing and fittings, the double PSU setup and more fan controlers and since the case has windows everywhere, the installation has to look super neat from every direction because it's all visible, so it's a given i'll be spending a lot of time on wire management alone...
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Have you ever had one of those tubes leak? What are those just compression fittings on the waterblocks? Sorry for all of the questions.
I saw you mention that flow meter that you were using. Could you hook me up with a little more info about that?Originally posted by ManglerGood work guys, we can't have too many positive posts in a row on this forum.
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Last edited by TRD Supra; Jul 23, 2012, 01:49 PM.CPU-Z Validated system specs
Sh4dowGr1p on BF3
Samsung 43" 3D PLASMA PN43D490 l XBOX 360 20GB - PS3 40GB - Saitek Eclipse | My Games | Panasonic 37" TC-37LZ800
Intel i5-3570k OC'ed / Zalman 9900MAX
Gigabyte GTX 670 OC
ASRock Z68 Extreme3 Gen3 motherboard
G.Skill Ares 16GB 4x4GB DDR3 1600 @1800 2 orange and 2 blue
Patriot Wildfire & OCZ VERTEX 3 (120GB SSDs) / Western Digital 500GB 32MB cache / Maxtor 100GB External
Samsung SH-S183L DVD Burner
ASUS XONAR DG 5.1 SOUND CARD /CM Storm 5.1 HEADSET 7.1 in UBS
NZXT Phantom 410 / PC P&C SILENCER MK II 750W 80+Silver
Samsung PN43D490 720p Plasma - Dell UltraSharp 2007WFP - 1907FP
Panasonic 5.1 HT - Saitek Eclipse - Logitech Elite keyboard - Logitech Mx518 - Logitech MOMO wheel
Windows 7 Pro 64 bit
Gigabyte mobo
Intel Core 2 Duo
EVGA 7800GT
GSkill 4GB 2x2
DELL 19" LCD
Seagate 120GB
Pioneer DVD Burner
Logitech Elite
Windows 7 Pro
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Originally posted by TRD Supra View Post
In the planning stages for some improvements to my system. It's been a while since I gave her a good going over- from my move and replacing video cards and hard drive the cable management is ruined, and she's fairly dusty- too embarrassed to post pics of her in her present state.Once I get her all cleaned up and the new parts added I'll definitely post pics. Gonna' take me a while to get it all though.
Originally posted by Akumajoa prime time magnifying glass of clusterfark shatstorm brewery.Originally posted by wabbitslayercongratulations on the anniversary of your emancipation from the Great Uterine Squeeze.Originally posted by swinglineThere are two types of people in the world: those that are humble and those that will be.
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Originally posted by BababooeyHTJ View PostHave you ever had one of those tubes leak? What are those just compression fittings on the waterblocks? Sorry for all of the questions.
I saw you mention that flow meter that you were using. Could you hook me up with a little more info about that?
The compression fittings are pretty much impossible to leak, since it's basically composed 2 metal pieces, wich one is a short cone shaped barb where the tube gets inserted into and a metal collar that slips on the outer diameter of the tube, and threads into the inner barb, compressing the tube the more you tighten it and it can't break, wear out or loosen on it's own.
The only thing that could mak it leak is the rubber o-ring where it threads into a radiator or water block( extremely unlikely as that is), or several months down the road where you notice that the outer locking collar can be threaded further in, since the tube has been squeezed so hard for months since it was first installed, that the tube wall becomes thinner over time.
As for flow meters, you can keep it simple like this:
Durchflusssensor mps flow 200, G1/4: Die Durchflusssensoren der mps flow Serie basieren technisch auf einer Differenzdruckmessung, die ohne rotierende Teile auskommt und dank der hohen Empfindlichkeit der verwendeten Sensoren nur einen minimalen Durchflusswiderstand hat. Durch dieses im Bereich der ...
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Thanks.
Originally posted by Redeemed View PostA few posts back folks gave you flak for your stickers. Honestly I think your rig looks great.
In the planning stages for some improvements to my system. It's been a while since I gave her a good going over- from my move and replacing video cards and hard drive the cable management is ruined, and she's fairly dusty- too embarrassed to post pics of her in her present state.Once I get her all cleaned up and the new parts added I'll definitely post pics. Gonna' take me a while to get it all though.
Originally posted by BababooeyHTJ View PostAre those the led strips?CPU-Z Validated system specs
Sh4dowGr1p on BF3
Samsung 43" 3D PLASMA PN43D490 l XBOX 360 20GB - PS3 40GB - Saitek Eclipse | My Games | Panasonic 37" TC-37LZ800
Intel i5-3570k OC'ed / Zalman 9900MAX
Gigabyte GTX 670 OC
ASRock Z68 Extreme3 Gen3 motherboard
G.Skill Ares 16GB 4x4GB DDR3 1600 @1800 2 orange and 2 blue
Patriot Wildfire & OCZ VERTEX 3 (120GB SSDs) / Western Digital 500GB 32MB cache / Maxtor 100GB External
Samsung SH-S183L DVD Burner
ASUS XONAR DG 5.1 SOUND CARD /CM Storm 5.1 HEADSET 7.1 in UBS
NZXT Phantom 410 / PC P&C SILENCER MK II 750W 80+Silver
Samsung PN43D490 720p Plasma - Dell UltraSharp 2007WFP - 1907FP
Panasonic 5.1 HT - Saitek Eclipse - Logitech Elite keyboard - Logitech Mx518 - Logitech MOMO wheel
Windows 7 Pro 64 bit
Gigabyte mobo
Intel Core 2 Duo
EVGA 7800GT
GSkill 4GB 2x2
DELL 19" LCD
Seagate 120GB
Pioneer DVD Burner
Logitech Elite
Windows 7 Pro
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Originally posted by caveman-jim View PostYou do it one at a time, typically you have to figure out which order to install and remove them depending on how your wiring and case permits.
With solid tubing connecting all 4 of them together, they also have to come out at the same time jim..... The only option where you can still install them seperately depends on the brand of the water cooling gear you're using, and if they make a bridge connector like for instance EK does:
You'll need the above along with this for each of the cards and their respective water blocks:
Then you can install or remove each water cooled card seperately, since the parallel bridge gets installed afterwards over all 4 cards, linking them together....
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Been reading reviews for all the available power supplies on the market in the 1200 watt class, and it seems that the Corsair AX1200 watt PSU's is what i'm looking for, so a pair of them are already ordered.
I like the single rail design, the large fan to keep it quiet, while being fully modular and having very little voltage ripple on the 3.3 volt, 5 volt and 12 volt rails, and to have even some voltage sagging, the PSU needs to be kicking out at least 900 watts sustained, but since there will be 2 of them installed, even my setup won't make both PSU's hit 900 watts....At least not without an electrical breaker in the house activating...
I could make do with a pair of 1000 watt units, but i remembered the old rule to make a PSU last.....Don't exceed 75% of it's rated capacity sustained, wich is something that was easily exceeded with the 1500 watt silverstone on a sustained basis, but even then it handled that beating for over 2 years without complaints, so they are tough suckers for sure.
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Thats nice, I didn't know that you installed to bridge afterwards.
I'm cheaping out and going with xspc blocks and the standard tubing in series which looks like even more of a pita since it won't be very ridgid with only one tube connecting the two cards.
Have you ever put a amp probe or any other sort of meter to see what the power draw is like on that pc?Originally posted by ManglerGood work guys, we can't have too many positive posts in a row on this forum.
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Originally posted by BababooeyHTJ View PostThats nice, I didn't know that you installed to bridge afterwards.
I'm cheaping out and going with xspc blocks and the standard tubing in series which looks like even more of a pita since it won't be very ridgid with only one tube connecting the two cards.
I'm not using the EK kit with my cards simply because the water blocks for the cards were released quite a bit later than koolance did for theirs, but had to use those adjustable extensions that link all 4 cards together before they're inserted:
They get installed at the same time and removed at the same time too....Pain in the ass for sure, but no leaks and they're connected in parallel mainly to reduce water restriction as each card receives cold water at the same time and a little bit lower temps than using a serial connection.
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Originally posted by BababooeyHTJ View Post
Have you ever put a amp probe or any other sort of meter to see what the power draw is like on that pc?
Used an inductive amp meter around the PSU's power cord while running benchmarks and the system routinely drew over 1400 watts A/C at the wall socket, so figuring that most power supplies are 85 to 90% efficient, the PSU was dishing out 1300 watts D/C for sure, and the overclocks for the video cards weren't finalised at the time, so with higher clocks comes even higher power use.
Now the system has 2400 watts to play with....
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Originally posted by shadow001 View PostIt all depends how complex the build is in the end.....If you end up using 5 radiators with 20+ fans, 4 pumps, cooling 2 CPU's and the motherboard and the VRM's for each CPU, along with 4 video cards and extra reservoirs, and the fan controlers and 2 PSU's with all the fittings and tubing requirements while making it all look good, it's not quite that easy anymore....
This upcoming build will make my current one look easy by comparison basically...
Then again this is coming from someone who has rebuilt their own transmission, engines, done a whole obd1 to obd2 wiring swap, automatic to manual trans conversion, and a custom turbo kit... So, water cooling a pc just seems super basic to me.
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Originally posted by Roadhog_ View PostStill pretty simple... It a few tubes and connections. :|
Then again this is coming from someone who has rebuilt their own transmission, engines, done a whole obd1 to obd2 wiring swap, automatic to manual trans conversion, and a custom turbo kit... So, water cooling a pc just seems super basic to me.
True to an extent, just with the amount of plexiglass the case is packing, everything is visible and there's no cable management at all in these cube cases, so it'll involve me routing all the harnesses very neatly, and making my own attachment system, and using power distribution hubs for all the molex connectors since there's far more of those to connect than there are molex outputs between both power supplies...using molex splitters looks tacky...
It'll involve a lot of cutting and drilling( a second power switch for the second PSU for instance) and measuring and labeling, with the latter being especially usefull so that it's easier to know wich power connector comes from what PSU, as well as making it easier for possible trouble shooting if problems arise.
I'll also make a cutout for the second PSU so that it gets better ventilation, and decided on changing the color of the tubing to orange since the black tubing looks little drab when everything else is black too....It wasn't an issue since the current case has no windows, but will be with the new one for sure.
Everything that i need is already ordered, at least to get the project started for the first few weeks, but i'm sure i'll need more stuff as the build progresses....1300$ spent( so far, and i had most of the stuff i need).Last edited by shadow001; Jul 23, 2012, 08:58 PM.
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NZXT White cabling installed
Last edited by TRD Supra; Jul 24, 2012, 04:04 PM.CPU-Z Validated system specs
Sh4dowGr1p on BF3
Samsung 43" 3D PLASMA PN43D490 l XBOX 360 20GB - PS3 40GB - Saitek Eclipse | My Games | Panasonic 37" TC-37LZ800
Intel i5-3570k OC'ed / Zalman 9900MAX
Gigabyte GTX 670 OC
ASRock Z68 Extreme3 Gen3 motherboard
G.Skill Ares 16GB 4x4GB DDR3 1600 @1800 2 orange and 2 blue
Patriot Wildfire & OCZ VERTEX 3 (120GB SSDs) / Western Digital 500GB 32MB cache / Maxtor 100GB External
Samsung SH-S183L DVD Burner
ASUS XONAR DG 5.1 SOUND CARD /CM Storm 5.1 HEADSET 7.1 in UBS
NZXT Phantom 410 / PC P&C SILENCER MK II 750W 80+Silver
Samsung PN43D490 720p Plasma - Dell UltraSharp 2007WFP - 1907FP
Panasonic 5.1 HT - Saitek Eclipse - Logitech Elite keyboard - Logitech Mx518 - Logitech MOMO wheel
Windows 7 Pro 64 bit
Gigabyte mobo
Intel Core 2 Duo
EVGA 7800GT
GSkill 4GB 2x2
DELL 19" LCD
Seagate 120GB
Pioneer DVD Burner
Logitech Elite
Windows 7 Pro
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Originally posted by BababooeyHTJ View PostNice, what is that a sleeved extension?
VGA ones are running late! This is probably my last tweak for a bit. my wallet is hoping for some time off, hahahaha.CPU-Z Validated system specs
Sh4dowGr1p on BF3
Samsung 43" 3D PLASMA PN43D490 l XBOX 360 20GB - PS3 40GB - Saitek Eclipse | My Games | Panasonic 37" TC-37LZ800
Intel i5-3570k OC'ed / Zalman 9900MAX
Gigabyte GTX 670 OC
ASRock Z68 Extreme3 Gen3 motherboard
G.Skill Ares 16GB 4x4GB DDR3 1600 @1800 2 orange and 2 blue
Patriot Wildfire & OCZ VERTEX 3 (120GB SSDs) / Western Digital 500GB 32MB cache / Maxtor 100GB External
Samsung SH-S183L DVD Burner
ASUS XONAR DG 5.1 SOUND CARD /CM Storm 5.1 HEADSET 7.1 in UBS
NZXT Phantom 410 / PC P&C SILENCER MK II 750W 80+Silver
Samsung PN43D490 720p Plasma - Dell UltraSharp 2007WFP - 1907FP
Panasonic 5.1 HT - Saitek Eclipse - Logitech Elite keyboard - Logitech Mx518 - Logitech MOMO wheel
Windows 7 Pro 64 bit
Gigabyte mobo
Intel Core 2 Duo
EVGA 7800GT
GSkill 4GB 2x2
DELL 19" LCD
Seagate 120GB
Pioneer DVD Burner
Logitech Elite
Windows 7 Pro
Comment
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Originally posted by shadow001 View PostUsed an inductive amp meter around the PSU's power cord while running benchmarks and the system routinely drew over 1400 watts A/C at the wall socket, so figuring that most power supplies are 85 to 90% efficient, the PSU was dishing out 1300 watts D/C for sure, and the overclocks for the video cards weren't finalised at the time, so with higher clocks comes even higher power use.
Now the system has 2400 watts to play with....
With most inductive meters I know, you are supposed to "read" the hot line, not the neutral line, and never both together.
I have a power strip that I use for metering and have isolated the hot lead out of the insulation for proper measurements.Originally posted by RedeemedGranted, this is coming from the fella' who's had over 1,000lbs of bucking muscle under neath him.Originally posted by John Smith"Fail" = verb "Failure" = noun
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Originally posted by VW_Factor View PostWhat meter you using?
With most inductive meters I know, you are supposed to "read" the hot line, not the neutral line, and never both together.
I have a power strip that I use for metering and have isolated the hot lead out of the insulation for proper measurements.
It's an A/C inductive amp meter, not a D/C one, so there's no hot line or neutral line....
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Originally posted by shadow001 View PostIt's an A/C inductive amp meter, not a D/C one, so there's no hot line or neutral line....
Apparently you don't understand how inductive amp meters work for A/C power, nor do you understand hot/neutral/ground.Originally posted by RedeemedGranted, this is coming from the fella' who's had over 1,000lbs of bucking muscle under neath him.Originally posted by John Smith"Fail" = verb "Failure" = noun
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Originally posted by VW_Factor View Post/facepalm
Apparently you don't understand how inductive amp meters work for A/C power, nor do you understand hot/neutral/ground.
Heh...All i do is wrap it around the power cord right after the wall socket, and it doesn't seem to have any issue giving me a reading in either amps or watts.
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Originally posted by Roadhog_ View Postlol wut.
And you claim to work on airplane electrical systems?
Thanks for checking back in. Glad to see you are looking for the latest articles and stories from our off-grid play ground. Have you signed up for our newletter yet? You could find your next adventure there. lots of things going on with the reboot of Outside Supply. New content being added daily. Featured Content Are RV Prices Falling? Economic conditions are changing swiftly. Inflation is high, and interest rates are rising rapidly to combat inflation.
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Originally posted by shadow001 View PostHeh...All i do is wrap it around the power cord right after the wall socket, and it doesn't seem to have any issue giving me a reading in either amps or watts.Answer 1When electrical current flows through a wire [or any conductor[, it creates an electromagnetic field which the clamp on Amp meter is disigned to detect and quantify. The meter loop is hinged and movable in order to open the loop to allow the loop to be placed "around" a single conductor. It is important that the loop be placed around only one conductor as if there is more than one wire conducting, then the fields from multiple wires will interfere with the meters ability to operate.The meter will have a switch [usually rotary] to change scales, and unless you know the approximate current flowing through the circuit, you should first set the meter to the highest current scale setting, and then switch to lower current scales until the proper one is found.
Here, so you stop ****ing up your readings.Originally posted by RedeemedGranted, this is coming from the fella' who's had over 1,000lbs of bucking muscle under neath him.Originally posted by John Smith"Fail" = verb "Failure" = noun
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In the dark
back to pictures.....
CPU-Z Validated system specs
Sh4dowGr1p on BF3
Samsung 43" 3D PLASMA PN43D490 l XBOX 360 20GB - PS3 40GB - Saitek Eclipse | My Games | Panasonic 37" TC-37LZ800
Intel i5-3570k OC'ed / Zalman 9900MAX
Gigabyte GTX 670 OC
ASRock Z68 Extreme3 Gen3 motherboard
G.Skill Ares 16GB 4x4GB DDR3 1600 @1800 2 orange and 2 blue
Patriot Wildfire & OCZ VERTEX 3 (120GB SSDs) / Western Digital 500GB 32MB cache / Maxtor 100GB External
Samsung SH-S183L DVD Burner
ASUS XONAR DG 5.1 SOUND CARD /CM Storm 5.1 HEADSET 7.1 in UBS
NZXT Phantom 410 / PC P&C SILENCER MK II 750W 80+Silver
Samsung PN43D490 720p Plasma - Dell UltraSharp 2007WFP - 1907FP
Panasonic 5.1 HT - Saitek Eclipse - Logitech Elite keyboard - Logitech Mx518 - Logitech MOMO wheel
Windows 7 Pro 64 bit
Gigabyte mobo
Intel Core 2 Duo
EVGA 7800GT
GSkill 4GB 2x2
DELL 19" LCD
Seagate 120GB
Pioneer DVD Burner
Logitech Elite
Windows 7 Pro
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Originally posted by VW_Factor View Post
The ones i use don't have to isolate wires at all, then again they're not the average gear people can buy( they are extremely expensive)....
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Originally posted by shadow001 View PostThe ones i use don't have to isolate wires at all, then again they're not the average gear people can buy( they are extremely expensive)....Originally posted by RedeemedGranted, this is coming from the fella' who's had over 1,000lbs of bucking muscle under neath him.Originally posted by John Smith"Fail" = verb "Failure" = noun
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Originally posted by VW_Factor View PostLike the one you linked to me? Don't bother carrying on, I'm done..
That was used as an example to show others what i'm talking about in general terms....The capabilites vary to a large degree, understand?
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