Is it possible to install intake fan filters? Since I started using a new chassis with filters I get way less dust build up inside as compared to my old one without filters. If not then I guess you can look at it as grizzly hair for your beast.
I put it on the outside the house and break out the small electrical air compressor and clean it pretty quickly in a matter of a few minutes....Comes in handy that the case has wheels, as the frigging thing fully loaded like this and water cooled weighs over 100 Lbs, so there's no way in hell i'll ever take it to a lan party....
Very clean and nice looking build Xion, not sure about the conduits though
That's actually plastic tubing used in electrical wiring harnesses on cars...I've seen it used in that application....There could be more uses, i just haven't seen it used anywhere else.
That's actually plastic tubing used in electrical wiring harnesses on cars...I've seen it used in that application....There could be more uses, i just haven't seen it used anywhere else.
Yep!
It's not MDPC sleeving or anything, but you can "sleeve" cables in about 1/1000th the time with it, so occasionally I'll use it. And it was black so seemed to blend in with the build more than a few I've done in the past.
It's not MDPC sleeving or anything, but you can "sleeve" cables in about 1/1000th the time with it, so occasionally I'll use it. And it was black so seemed to blend in with the build more than a few I've done in the past.
There's just a single cut in the tubing and it wraps around the entire harness, so it is much easier to install, but doesn't it block some airflow to the radiator?
That's actually plastic tubing used in electrical wiring harnesses on cars...I've seen it used in that application....There could be more uses, i just haven't seen it used anywhere else.
There's just a single cut in the tubing and it wraps around the entire harness, so it is much easier to install, but doesn't it block some airflow to the radiator?
Well, my airflow is reversed from yours. I'm pulling cool air in from the front (have a pull config on the radiator) and it's exhausted through the radiator fins and into the middle of the case. There are two 200mm fans in the ceiling that you can't see that exhaust hot air.
I've mounted a radiator to the ceiling before like you have yours, but (and this is my personal preference.. not saying that it's wrong) I don't like doing that since hot air naturally rises. To try pulling in cool air from the top of the case goes against modern physics as heat naturally tries to dissipate through any vents that are in the top of the case. I have done it before with some success, though, so know that it can be done effectively. Just choose not to do it.
Any cables sitting in front of the radiator, front or back, will block some air, whether it's standard sleeve or the plastic tubing that I'm using now. However, I'm afraid not much can be done. With the layout of my case the radiator has to go in that spot it's in. And because the fittings on the radiator sit parallel to the res in the drive bay I'm using less tubing, as well.
Well, my airflow is reversed from yours. I'm pulling cool air in from the front (have a pull config on the radiator) and it's exhausted through the radiator fins and into the middle of the case. There are two 200mm fans in the ceiling that you can't see that exhaust hot air.
I've mounted a radiator to the ceiling before like you have yours, but (and this is my personal preference.. not saying that it's wrong) I don't like doing that since hot air naturally rises. To try pulling in cool air from the top of the case goes against modern physics as heat naturally tries to dissipate through any vents that are in the top of the case. I have done it before with some success, though, so know that it can be done effectively. Just choose not to do it.
Any cables sitting in front of the radiator, front or back, will block some air, whether it's standard sleeve or the plastic tubing that I'm using now. However, I'm afraid not much can be done. With the layout of my case the radiator has to go in that spot it's in. And because the fittings on the radiator sit parallel to the res in the drive bay I'm using less tubing, as well.
True on all points, but i want the CPU's to receive the colder air from outside the case first, wich lowers their temps for a given overclock hence why it's set to intake rather than exaust, and i'll waterjet cut the side panels to allow 2 more fans( controled by the front mounted fan controler) to act as an intake for the vertical radiators cooling the GPU's as they're set to exausts.....Basically i'm trying to setup the cooling into 2 seperate areas for the CPU loop and the GPU loop.
I put it on the outside the house and break out the small electrical air compressor and clean it pretty quickly in a matter of a few minutes....Comes in handy that the case has wheels, as the frigging thing fully loaded like this and water cooled weighs over 100 Lbs, so there's no way in hell i'll ever take it to a lan party....
just don't blow off any capacitors. Keep the PSI low.
True on all points, but i want the CPU's to receive the colder air from outside the case first, wich lowers their temps for a given overclock hence why it's set to intake rather than exaust, and i'll waterjet cut the side panels to allow 2 more fans( controled by the front mounted fan controler) to act as an intake for the vertical radiators cooling the GPU's as they're set to exausts.....Basically i'm trying to setup the cooling into 2 seperate areas for the CPU loop and the GPU loop.
Yeah, I'm sure that you have your own reasons for setting it up the way that you did.
I learned this lesson one time. On my first water cooled PC I had the radiator mounted in the top of the case and "pushing" air off. Inexperienced as I was, I thought "pushing" the hot air off the radiator sounded like a great idea. One day I realized that I was doing nothing but exhausting all the hot case air through the radiator fins and heating up the radiator. I reversed the fans to pull cold air in through the top and dropped my temps by 5C when doing so.
That's how I know it can be done.
My preference, however, is to keep the radiator in the bottom of the case as that's naturally where the cool air resides. It becomes challenging with the more stuff you have in your case, though.
Ha! I did the same thing in my build too. Too lazy to sleeve the ****.
By the time I'm done sleeving a PSU it's been like 3 days and my hands look like they've been through a cheese grater.
I like this stuff better.
Performance-PCs will sleeve them for you but it voids the warranty, and they charge a premium for their PSUs. Was trying to go a little more 'budget' with this build.
Those cans of compressed air don't do much for cleaning out a res. I use them for basic cleanup, but I bust out the air compressor every few months to clean out the fins in the res.
If you were to put the kit outside your case, at the back, is there enough clearance to still have your USB and video card cables and stuff?
The Swiftech site doesn't give me much idea about clearances and I am not sure I can get one of their kits to fit in my Corsair 500R, except on the back or the top.
Your case is looking sweet When's the next upgrade
System is fully assembled with everything connected(i hope), and ready for the first full power up of the entire system.
Shows the plumbing for the cards more clearly.
I really need to replace that blue hose once i flush the CPU loop sometime in the future...
The top fillport for the larger of the 2 radiators used for the CPU loop, wich i had to drill the hole to the exact location where the built in reservoir is located on the radiator.
If you were to put the kit outside your case, at the back, is there enough clearance to still have your USB and video card cables and stuff?
The Swiftech site doesn't give me much idea about clearances and I am not sure I can get one of their kits to fit in my Corsair 500R, except on the back or the top.
Your case is looking sweet When's the next upgrade
The adapter is adjustable both horizontally and vertically, so it can clear the I/O back panel quite easily and can be bolted to any of the 3 fan locations on the radiator itself....I just did it the painfull way by wanting everything internally...
Edit: Upgrade to what exactly?....There isn't anything much faster than this for the time being...
The adapter is adjustable both horizontally and vertically, so it can clear the I/O back panel quite easily and can be bolted to any of the 3 fan locations on the radiator itself....I just did it the painfull way by wanting everything internally...
I bet you did
Cool, I just returned my H80 because apparently it's hit or miss to find one where the pump is not whining with a high pitched noise
Cool, I just returned my H80 because apparently it's hit or miss to find one where the pump is not whining with a high pitched noise
Sad because it cooled like a champ.
The pump on the swiftech kit is PWM controled so you can plug it in a CPU fan header and it'll automatically change the pump RMP depending on the temperature that the CPU is reporting, but even at full RPM it isn't noisy and the cooling fans will make more noise depending on their RPM anyhow.
The pump on the swiftech kit is PWM controled so you can plug it in a CPU fan header and it'll automatically change the pump RMP depending on the temperature that the CPU is reporting, but even at full RPM it isn't noisy and the cooling fans will make more noise depending on their RPM anyhow.
Given that I have a mid-tower, I was looking at this:
You know it actually comes with the MP35X too, so can easily take on a radiator and cool a whole bunch more.
True, the pump is pretty good on that kit and you can add another block for the motherboard or ram or even a second radiator in series.
Anyhow the beast is now plugged in and everything seems to be working just fine with a huge amount of water flow on the GPU loop with those 3 pumps, so i might connect the PWM headers on the bottom pumps to the touch screen fan controler as it has 2 headers available....They're MP35x pumps too btw.
I can connect them to the CPU fan headers on the motherboard, and use the speed fan utility to slow them down, since i'm not sure the fan controler is meant to handle water pump motors in that way as unlike a fan, the power for the water pump motors comes straight from the PSU directly, not the fan controler itself.
-Running intel SRT mode with 2TB 5900rpm drive and 64GB M4
-Moved all drives to the floppy and 5.25 bays, removed HDD cage for improved airflow
-removed stock case fans for Notcua's for better intake
-push pull config for the Corsair H60 with the Noctua's
-was able to optimizing cabling for better airflow (removed two cables I don't need anymore and rearranged others...)
-added Recon3D sound card
-Filco tenkeyless blue cherry MX keyboard
Bought a couple brackets to pull it off, and saved me $200 from buying and shipping a case. I'm proud of how it turned out.
Last edited by Sound_Card; Feb 21, 2012, 09:50 PM.
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