I might have to steal that idea. What fan guards are you using?
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I made them out of some 18ga sheet metal I had cut on my my suppliers plasma table for the outer frame
and a roll expanded aluminum I had in the my shop, I put some 1/8 x 1/4 foam tape on the fans to add spacing between fans and the expanded aluminum
expanded aluminum is about 20 to 24 ga can't remember where I got it
Last edited by bill dennison; Jun 11, 2014, 07:56 PM.
Noticed you have a pull configuration on your rad. Worth it over the push config or was it a visual preference?
Horse a piece in terms of performance. Pretty sure I mounted it that way simply because it required less screws.
A very long time ago when I had a custom liquid cooling system, I did do some testing on different radiator/fan orientations. What I found was the best for a single fan on a rad was to have it pull with a spacer. So I would hollow out an extra fan and mount it between the rad and the active fan in pull orientation. That alleviated the dead spot and allow it to cool a few degrees less.
Weight of the lower card's cooler seems to be bending the PCB.....Now you know why I like horizontal configurations and the card sitting nice and vertical.
Horse a piece in terms of performance. Pretty sure I mounted it that way simply because it required less screws.
A very long time ago when I had a custom liquid cooling system, I did do some testing on different radiator/fan orientations. What I found was the best for a single fan on a rad was to have it pull with a spacer. So I would hollow out an extra fan and mount it between the rad and the active fan in pull orientation. That alleviated the dead spot and allow it to cool a few degrees less.
Fair enough. I think it looks nicer with the fans hidden. I might flip mine the next time I dust out my case.
I don't think using card as PhysX will consume much power but still I used secondary PSU just to be safe
Originally posted by jimjobob
If 3 fans left the station at 10:30am cooling at a temp of 63c and one fan was derailed by a stray sata cable on the track, how long would it take all 3 fans to get on Seyiji's last nerve?
(a) Mmmm donuts
(b) 70c
(c) Hey there muscly arms, why the long face?
(d) Must use fire.
If 3 fans left the station at 10:30am cooling at a temp of 63c and one fan was derailed by a stray sata cable on the track, how long would it take all 3 fans to get on Seyiji's last nerve?
(a) Mmmm donuts
(b) 70c
(c) Hey there muscly arms, why the long face?
(d) Must use fire.
**** the cable management, it's dusty as the ****ing Sahara
It isn't as bad as it looks just the flash makes things worse
Originally posted by jimjobob
If 3 fans left the station at 10:30am cooling at a temp of 63c and one fan was derailed by a stray sata cable on the track, how long would it take all 3 fans to get on Seyiji's last nerve?
(a) Mmmm donuts
(b) 70c
(c) Hey there muscly arms, why the long face?
(d) Must use fire.
I'm surprised that you even run the fans at 1100rpm. I bet that you could get away with 900rpm or less with those monster rads and not notice much of a difference with temps.
Originally posted by Mangler
Good work guys, we can't have too many positive posts in a row on this forum.
I'm surprised that you even run the fans at 1100rpm. I bet that you could get away with 900rpm or less with those monster rads and not notice much of a difference with temps.
just turned them down till I could not hear them with most everything in room off but keep them as fast as possible to allow for the filters as they get dirty
and all that air is going up through the case the 680 side is so cool now I think I can get rid of the 2 case fans on that side
i'm almost tempted to get rid of the rads and fans and put a water to water heat exchanger in it and a cooling tower in the side yard
I'm interested to hear the pros and cons of a unit like that.
a cooling tower ?
pro
65f to 80f water temp most of the year
most all heat is pumped outside, save on a/c cooling bills
and noise is mostly outside to
cons
cost of set up
piping the house with insulated copper pipe
maybe to cold in winter, but maybe able to find a temperature actuated water regulating valve in the right temp range
or cover and or just turn off the tower fan in winter and just run the pump
I would be more likely to do it if koolance still made that water cooled PSU
Last edited by bill dennison; Jun 22, 2014, 07:34 PM.
Nice, I do you think that the savings in a/c will outweigh the cost of running the tower? I notice that it has a 1/6 horse motor. I'm sure that the pump draws a bit too.
Will you have to worry about condensation?
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Originally posted by Mangler
Good work guys, we can't have too many positive posts in a row on this forum.
Nice, I do you think that the savings in a/c will outweigh the cost of running the tower? I notice that it has a 1/6 horse motor. I'm sure that the pump draws a bit too.
But it doesn't take 350 Wh to move 350 Wh of heat from the house. It is something less than that, not sure exactly how much though.
the 350 is the tower fan and pump watts
my two systems can max out about 750 to 850 watts each so say 1500 watts of heat or about 5200 btu so you would need about a 1/2 ton window unit would do it and that uses about 600 watts and noisy as h*ll
mini split ac would be quieter but cost 4 times as much
I just put a mastercool evap cooler on my office just for it and it working great till the monsoon season hits
and by using a 1/2hp motor and a 3" pulley I got the total amps down to 1.3 on low and 2.9 on high at 240 volts, so 312 watts on low and 696 watts on high
my two systems can max out about 750 to 850 watts each so say 1500 watts of heat or about 5200 btu so you would need about a 1/2 ton window unit would do it and that uses about 600 watts and noisy as h*ll
mini split ac would be quieter but cost 4 times as much
I just put a mastercool evap cooler on my office just for it and it working great till the monsoon season hits
and by using a 1/2hp motor and a 3" pulley I got the total amps down to 1.3 on low and 2.9 on high at 240 volts, so 312 watts on low and 696 watts on high
Your systems can max out at 750-850 watts, but they don't run that all the time, do they? Most of the time I imagine they are somewhere between 100-200 watts or even lower.
In terms of A/C requirements, I just made an assumption that you already had decent full home A/C (that is probably a poor assumption. Where I live, you would be pretty miserable without A/C)
In my area, I wonder what the water usage would be like. There are already communities that will have to ration this summer. No more water for home irrigation and stuff like that.
Your systems can max out at 750-850 watts, but they don't run that all the time, do they? Most of the time I imagine they are somewhere between 100-200 watts or even lower.
In terms of A/C requirements, I just made an assumption that you already had decent full home A/C (that is probably a poor assumption. Where I live, you would be pretty miserable without A/C)
In my area, I wonder what the water usage would be like. There are already communities that will have to ration this summer. No more water for home irrigation and stuff like that.
yea I got full home a/c and full home evaporative cooling plus now the small slowed down 5000 cmf evaporative cooler on the office
and i'm a hvac contractor
and idle on the 3930k system is about 275 watts and the 3770k is around 240 watts
evaporative coolers do use a bit of water and have a bleed off of about 3 gal. a hour when running but I reuse it to go to the trees
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