Nocd

[OverclockN']

What's the story on welding in all the reinforcement plates? Are the control arms known to bend and twist that much? Planning to track it with some super sticky tires?

[Elysian]

What's the story on welding in all the reinforcement plates? Are the control arms known to bend and twist that much? Planning to track it with some super sticky tires?

The first part, yes. BMW knew they were loose too, they put this type of reinforcement on the Z3M, which uses the same rear axle. I'm mainly doing all this because I don't need the car on the road any time soon, and I want it to be as good as possible.

This is the Z3M arm:

[Elysian]

Was busy most of the day, but went out and welded in another small reinforcement on the rear trailing arm. I'm happier with this one.

[Elysian]

Got the other trailing arm stripped down, now need to clean it up and prep it for welding. Will probably do that tomorrow.

[Elysian]

Finished welding the trailing arm and got everything primed with etching primer and painted black.



Still have a bunch of parts I need:

Wheel bearings
E46 rear brake caliper adapter
E46 rear brake calipers
E46 rear brake pads
Z4 rear rotors
All E-brake parts
Brake lines
Brake dust shields, both sides (were very rusted out, the E-brake parts just broke right off the shields)

So won't have the rear end together any time soon. I think I'm going to shift my focus to the front subframe now, need to pull the one out of my 86...

[Android1]

As a guy who grew up, and still lives, in the North, I find the lush green December grass highly amusing.

EDIT: Wow, the high in Austin today was 74 °F! It was 34 °F where I live.

[Elysian]

Pulled the front subframe from my spare E30 today, managed to do it without even getting under the car. A good thing, as it's been raining and was really muddy under there.



Going to be attempting a tubular front subframe for this, may even try to run a rear sump oil pan on the V8...

[Elysian]

Lots of driving today, roughly 6 hours total. Took a trip to Houston to help a guy pull the driveline out of a 92 3 series vert, in exchange he allowed me to cut off the core support for my own car. Removing the core support made engine removal super easy anyways.



Going to make the core on my V8 E30 removable, might try to get that going this weekend, but have a lot of other stuff around the house to do, so who knows.

[Elysian]

Recently, I decided to change direction slightly and simplify things. I want to get the car on the road so I can feel it out, see where I want to take it from here. To do that, I've decided to temporarily go carburetor/distributor. Yesterday, I picked up a Holley 600cfm setup for it.




Still need to grab an HEI distributor, but this will allow me to get it on the road without the tuning I'd need with the Megasquirt setup. I'll see how the car drives with this setup and go from there. I think ultimately I'll wind up with a 347 stroker and a turbo, but I've never even driven this car so I think this is a vital step.

[gamefoo21]

Ooo that should sound great with that carb.

Hopefully the less aggressive roller cam will play nice with a turbo setup.

I was sad, I didn't see any port massaging. Factory porting is almost always less than stellar unless it's a purpose built aka expensive car. I almost always now, when I build an engine clean up the port castings.

I'm dreading building the MS3 rig for my project, for the same reasons. It's why I've been tormenting the stock system in my somewhat drivable car. The turbo though, uses a VAF... A vane air flow meter, so it's definitely getting a MAP based system with LS coils too... Beautiful trigger wheel I saw...

The only thing I'd suggest for that engine, is to get one of those Fluidampers or the like. It will really help tame the harmonics. Got one for the 2.slow in the VW, because the dream is to put a snail on it eventually, but I'll have to be content with the 130hp I might get out of it. The reason for the fancy damper, is because it's lacking a counterbalance shaft, and the over bore pushed it over 2L.

I never want to build an engine that needs the rods rifle drilled ever again... Basically doubled the cost of the rods.

Just some questions from my quick looky looky...

Did you hone the cylinders?

Are you running stock pistons? Stock rods? How do the stock rods and pistons hold up?

What bearings did you put in the bottom half? I always dithered on the Aluminum vs tri-layer vs coated.

I must have missed it, but did you go studs on the engine or stick with factory bolts? I know ARP sells upgraded rod bolts for the 302s. I'm a firmly entrenched hater of TTY or as VW calls them, cheese head bolts...

Enough of my yammering... I actually really like that this isn't another LS build, it's far more interesting to me. I have a soft spot for different builds.

Oh and I have a bunch of tools I'll never use again probably from rebuilding a rear axle. Doing it right is a very involved process. If I ever do it again, and if anyone reads this and ends up doing a rear axle, buy the case spreader. I didn't and it was a bad decision. If you get cursed with anything that has a GM 10 bolt, I feel for you. Lots of lessons learned... Heh

[Elysian]

Didn't see your edit till today.

The machine shop did a light hone, the cylinders were in great shape. Didn't have to have it bored or anything. Even though the motor I bought had blown head gaskets, it was still in fantastic shape.

The stock rods and pistons are actually pretty good. The pistons are already aluminum, and the rods are nice and strong, they'd hold up to more than what I'll throw at it. I don't want to overdo it on this build, if I get it running and decide I need more I'll either do a 347 stroker or I'll go 351, with a turbo.

Heads are held on with ARP bolts. Everything else is factory I think, though it's been a while since I built it, so my memory isn't great.

I did upgrade the heads to 3/8" stud mounted roller rockers. Otherwise they're stock.


Today I stopped by the junkyard checked every single Ford with a 302, and on the very last one I found what I was looking for... A distributor with electric advance. Also had an MSD cap on it in like new condition. Grabbed the plug wires too, just need something to control the advance with. Only thing I need beyond that is a bypass regulator to drop the fuel pressure down to 6-7psi.

[MasterGoa]

For what reason do you want to go back to carb and distributor?

[Elysian]

I already commented on that.

[gamefoo21]

I was kind of curious about that, because I knew you were talking about going stroker in the future, so getting fancy on the pistons and rods didn't make much sense.

If you go 351, which way would you go? If I remember right Ford had 3 versions of it. Though a stroker might be the lightest option but probably the most expensive.

Glad to hear the block just needed a basic refresh.

Why not a vacuum advance dizzy for now to keep things simple? After all the fun I've had with plugs and wires, I only use mag core wires. I refuse to even buy the fibreglass wires.

To get the advance working on the distributor you might need an MSD ignition box. It is pretty much for adapting old vacuum distributor engines to an electronic one. I think it pulls the tach signal from the distributor. I don't have much experience with them because they don't do 3 cylinder engines, and my 4 bangers are all coils to plug.

[Roadhog]

You putting on two of these turbskis right?

https://www.thedrive.com/news/31540/...se-you-need-it

[MasterGoa]

I already commented on that.

My question is how retrofitting a carb on a fuel injected engines makes things simpler? Removing the fuel rail and intake for something else is a good amount of work.

[Elysian]

No it isn't, it's a few bolts and a fuel pressure regulator. Have you never worked on a small block?

[MasterGoa]

Ford 302 with an ECC-IV.

Of course, the fuel injection is block mounted so all that is required
is proper fuel pressure and you can mount the engine anywhere.

[Elysian]

Google has failed you.

[MasterGoa]

It did. This is why I asked.

[Elysian]

It did. This is why I asked.

The 302 was originally made as a carbureted motor. They didn't update much of anything to make it work for fuel economy, so swapping to carb is extremely simple. There is so much work I still have to do to finish the fuel injection, then I have to tune it, I have no idea what the car is right now so I want to find that out before I sink so much time into the fuel injection. I want to be able to put some miles on it before I spend even more getting it right.

I've never even driven a stock E30, much my E30. I've only ever driven highly modified examples.

[gamefoo21]

Yeah, every small block I've seen the injection ports are in the intake manifold. A carb intake runner simply bolts into place between the heads.

It's really simple to pull MP or TB EFI off any north American small block.

Elysian...

Did you look into the MSD Ignition Control box?

[MasterGoa]

Ah OK that makes sense, so you simply back track to carb.

I assumed the opposite where carbing would require much swapping.

It is still the same for mid 2000's V-8? Like an LS1?

And yeah, MSD has a bolt on with the harness already made.

[Elysian]

Cut the core support off and cleaned up the car side of it. Swapped the carb setup on.



Verified the strut bar will still work with the carb.



In case anyone wonders why the headers come out the front, no room. Steering exits right where the header would go.




edit: Air filter showed up, bought an Edelbrock for my Holley carb

[MasterGoa]

The engine might scoff a bit!

What year block is this?

[Elysian]

1999, should be fine. The cam I put in is good for carb or fuel injection.

[Elysian]

The rear end is out of the BMW. Already have the replacement modified and painted, but need to press in new wheel bearings and buy the rest of the big brake kit. The subframe bushings were stuck on pretty good, took some wrestling to get this out.

Also need to add a second diff mount while it's out.

Oh I also measured the driveshaft length before I pulled out. With the WC T5 I came up with a length of 46" from end of output shaft to diff flange.

[Elysian]

Got the new fuel pressure regulator in today. Plan right now is to drain the gas tank and refill it with clean fuel, install a new fuel filter, and install the new regulator. Then I'll clean up the wiring, prime the engine with oil again (since it's been so long), and run it. I'm going to start getting quotes for a driveshaft as well, possibly get that going.

I also went ahead and just ordered a GM HEI style distributor with vacuum advance. Didn't think through the distributor I picked up with the electric advance. Should be here tomorrow.

[Elysian]

That escalated quickly. Driveshaft is being made. Should be done mid next week.

[Elysian]

LKQ (junkyard) had a 40% off sale this weekend, so went and grabbed some E46 control arms for the E30 build. Will give a much wider track up front, which will compliment the wide body kit really well. Can sell the E36 M3 arms I have as well.

[Elysian]

Driveshaft is done.



Came to $375.

[Elysian]

Grabbed a 2nd set of the BBK shorty headers so I could run a proper passenger side header. Wish I could have found just a passenger, but this set wasn't too expensive. Saw plenty of drivers side headers on eBay...

[Elysian]

Minor stuff today... Started mocking up the alternator and power steering pump, which meant relocating the dipstick tube and engine ground. Relocated the engine ground to the alternator mount.


Installed the breathers and the put the new distributor in place. Found out the 14" filter I purchased won't fit, so bought a 12" in the same style.



Then, since I bought a second set of BBK shorty headers, installed the correct passenger side header. However, I found I had to clearance the firewall to get it to go.



Looked at some other things like the clutch slave cylinder, still not sure how I'm going to accomplish that right now.

[Elysian]

11 months since I last worked on the car, I finally spent some time under it. Not a lot, I don't have a lot of down-time I can dedicate to the car, but at least I got something done.

I pressed in the Delrin rear subframe mount bushings, then installed the modified rear subframe in the car.

[OverclockN']

Fun! Bushings can be a total pain in the ass, especially delrin. I had to hand fit every one of the bushings in the track car. Nice work, what's next?

[Elysian]

Fun! Bushings can be a total pain in the ass, especially delrin. I had to hand fit every one of the bushings in the track car. Nice work, what's next?

I ordered all the new parts I need to do the rear brake setup. I still need to grab some used calipers off an E46 in the junkyard to finish that out. Intend to start piecing together the rear end, get the driveshaft connected, then go from there. Still have to run brake lines up front, including a proportioning valve, install the E46 control arms, and plenty more.

The brake setup will be interesting. I've got a bracket that allows me to run an E46 caliper while having to use a Z4 rear rotor setup. Stock setup in the E30, the E36 318ti, and the Z3 non-M's is a solid rotor, not vented, so this will give me a vented rotor in the rear. I'll have 310mm rotors up front and 297mm in the rear. Should be plenty of stopping power. I won't be running ABS.

[OverclockN']

Awesome, I've never pieced together a braking system like that. I bought one where the work was already done. Is this a setup already used by a lot of people so the master is correct size for the caliper/pad size used?

[Elysian]

Awesome, I've never pieced together a braking system like that. I bought one where the work was already done. Is this a setup already used by a lot of people so the master is correct size for the caliper/pad size used?

Yes, it's pretty common for the E30 5 lug swap people to run something like this. The company that made the brackets gives an OEM part number list to finish out the kit.

Would be cool if I could have the car ready for next autocross season (early February start). Would be a lot more fun than the Audi, I think.

[OverclockN']

Run em both!

[Elysian]

Run em both!

Wife would not approve of a doubled tire budget