Cooler Master HSC-V62 conversion guide, and RESULTS plus PICS!!

[Ace M]

Disclaimer: I take no responsibility for any damage you may cause to your card doing the fallowing modification. You MOD at you OWN risk. (If you have any questions about the fallowing, PLEASE feel free to ask)


Reason
It all started about a month ago. I had received my replacement card for one I had RMAd. I had downloaded and installed rage 3dtweak not long before that. I started screwing around with over clocks. At first, I did not even go past 300 CORE. I was scared I might fry something. But, one day I got the MOXY to raise my clocks. AT first 320, then 340, 350,360, and finally 375.75. I was still running stock cooling, but it looked good to me. At that time I was running my crappy infinion 3.3ns memory at 306. Everything ran great. Until one day I started noticing some pixilating after a long gaming session. That was a heat related issue (at the time I did not know that). Then, my memory that had been completely stable at 306 began to give me grief. At first, I would see Bars that would appear, and then if I continued to play I would get tearing. So, after getting some help from other Rage3d members I decided to Mod my cooling.

WARNING: This is going to be a long post, if you are not seated in comfortable chair or do not have the appropriate snacking food, a severe condition known as boredom will result. The only way to correct this condition is by engaging in a stimulating activity… such as intercourse. Or, take a look at my pictures I posted for your viewing enjoyment.

(I posted them at the top, so you slouches whom are to “busy” to read my wonderfully written extremely informative post can just pop a look. You people make me sick )

http://community.webshots.com/user/badcon (Really neat website, I was in a dilemma as to what to do with my pictures, then I found this. WARNING 56k users you may have long load times)

Brief Description of what I INTENDED to DO:
I INTENDED to attach ONE Cooler Master HSC-V62 copper cooler to the core of my Powercolor 9700np. (I destroyed one when a #4-40 tap broke off in the HS base)

Brief Description of what I DID.
I attached Two Cooler Master HSC-V62 copper CPU coolers to my Powercolor 9700np. One of them is intact cooling the core, while the other was chopped into pieces and used to cool the memory and the voltage regulator.

Tools and Materials I needed:
1.One Radeon
2.Two Cooler Master HSC-V62 copper CPU Heat sinks.
3.Two #4-40 taps and appropriate sized drill bit #43
4.Two #4-40 screws about a half-inch long
5.Two nylon washers of appropriate size
6.One Black ballpoint pen
7.One Dremel with grinding stone
8.One bottle of high purity isopropyl alcohol
9.One tube of Arctic Silver 3 thermal compound
10.Two pieces of thermal tape
11.One Band Saw
12.One Swiss Army knife (shim removal)
13.One Exacto (cleaning the crap out from between the fins)
14.#280,320,500,800,1500,and 2500 sand paper (lapping the HS base)
15.And oodles of patience

Tools and materials YOU will need:
1.One Radeon
2.ONE Cooler Master HSC-V62 copper CPU cooler
3.ONE #4-40 tap and appropriate sized drill bit #43
4.Two #4-40 screws about a half-inch long
5.Two nylon washers of appropriate size
6.One black ballpoint pen
7.One bottle of high purity isopropyl alcohol
8.One tube of Arctic Silver 3 thermal compound
9.One Swiss Army knife, or equivalent (shim removal)

Steps YOU should fallow:
1. Remove stock HSF (Heat sink and fan). The stock heat sink is held on by plastic pushpins. Remove them by pushing on the back of them. I used a Popsicle stick. Once they are removed, pull off the HSF. It should come easily. Try twisting it a LITTLE. Gently remove it. Once removed you will see the crappy thermal paste/pad or lack thereof. GENTLY clean the gunk off the core with either, high quality Isopropyl alcohol (90%) or a Xylean based cleaner (Goof Off).
2. Optional, but RECCOMENDED shim removal. Removing the shim is easy. Some say it voids your warranty. They are correct, but you can always reattach itJ. To remove the shim, inspect all of the edges and see if there is one that is raised up a little. Once you find the edge you like, take a slim, sharp, and RIGID blade like a Swiss Army knife and slowly and GENTLY work it under the shim. Slowly pull up the shim, high enough so you can fit your nail under it. With your nail (or the knife if you like) slowly work around the shim prying it up until it pops off (Mine just flew off the minute I started using a stiffer blade). I tried using an exacto, but it was to flimsy. All I did was scratch the green PCB.
3. Optional, Milling the HS base. Using a Dremel (or equivalent) mill the area where the shim would contact the HS base. Mill it about 2 mm down. Make sure not to grind into the area where the core makes contact with the HS.
4. Mounting position. (There are probably easier ways to do this, but I did not know any) Take the heat sink, and place it on the card. Position it to where you like. Once it is in place take ballpoint pen and mark the base of the HS through the mounting holes on the card. Do not worry about scratching the base; it is covered with protective sticker (That sticker comes in handy when drilling). I had to lift my card (with the HS on it) in the air to be able to reach the holes. This was difficult considering I had to be careful or the HS would move out of place.
5. DRILLINGJ. Take the HS and place it on a flat steady surface. Take your drill and make sure the #4-40 HIGH STRENGTH bit is chucked down REAL TIGHT. If not, it could get stuck in the base (This HAPPENED to ME and the bit BROKE OFF). You MUST go slowly, as you might slam through the opposite side of the base and damage one of the fins. (IMPORTANT NOTE, when backing out the drill bit, go really slow. This is when I broke off the bit.) I really do recommend using some sort of lube when drilling copper.
6. Tapping. If you managed to drill successfully, it is now time to tap the holes. THIS is the most DANGEROUS part of this mod. I recommend the use of LUBRICANT to ensure that the tap does not get stuck or break off. With a tap and dye , tap the holes. Make sure that they are even as possible. Once the hole is completely tapped back the tap out of the hole SLOWLY. If it gets stuck, apply even pressure and CAREFULLY remove the tap (This is where I broke one off). Check the newly tapped hole by screwing in the #4-40 screw. Make sure it is able to go all the way through the hole cleanly.
7. Test Mounting. After the drilling is complete, remove any metal fragments from the HS. This is important as loose copper shavings could FRY your card. Once cleaning is complete, it is time to install the HS. Test the mounting position before you remove the protective film off of the HS base. If you find that the HS is slightly crooked, TOO BAD. It is to late to make any changes. You could drill again, but you would have to rotate the HS. I did not want to do this because I had a fan blowing on the card from the door of my case. I wanted the air to blow through the fins.
8. Actual MOUNTING. It is now time to see whether you have normal intelligence. Did you do this right? Now you will see. Before you mount the HS you have to apply thermal compound. I used Arctic Silver 3. I fallowed the instructions recommended on the Arctic Silver website. http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_s...structions.htm this is a link. Brief overview. Clean the mounting surfaces thoroughly with either a Xylean based cleaner, or isopropyl alcohol. Apply a mound of AS3 to the base of the HS. Cover your hand with a rubber glove, or place it in a sandwich bag. Rub the AS3 around the HS base, making sure to cover the area that makes contact with the GPU (this fills in a macroscopic cracks, or valleys). Then place a small dab(about the size of a half or quarter grain of rice) on the VPU. Begin to smooth it out over the entire chip. Make sure you have the thinnest layer possible. It should almost be translucent. Once that is finished, place the HS on the core. Make sure not to twist or move the HS sideways. While applying even pressure to the HS, screw it down (this is going to be tricky, I had to lift the card in the air to insert the screws). Make sure you have the Nylon washers on the screws.
9. Optional but RECOMMENDED fan attachment. The fan that comes with the HSC-V62 is too thick to fit on the card without three PCI slots empty. Another fan must be used. I used the stock ATI fan that came with the card (yes, I used it. It works great to. I did not even have to use screws). I turned the fan upside down, so now it blows on the card. I used the fan mount that came with the HS and slid the ATI fan under the lip. It is held on beautifully.

Additional steps I had to take.
After destroying the first HS I purchased another one for the core. The first one, was still intact enough to be used as heat sinks for the voltage regulator, and the memory.
1. Slice the HS into correctly sized pieces. I used a band saw. Most people do not have a Band saw; so I think a dremel with a cutting wheel will suffice. A hacksaw would be great also.
2. Once the pieces are cut, I had to lap the bases again. I used sand paper. I used #280,320,500,800,1500,2500. When I was FINALLY finished, a women could put on makeup with the reflection these babies had on them.
3. Mounting. I used thermal tape, because I was worried about permanency. Thermal epoxy could also be used, but I do not recommend it.
4. Perfecto, One seriously COOLED card

Results.
(I did not take any temps, sorry)
I do have a heat sensor controlled fan blowing on the card. The sensor is placed in the main HS at the base. The fan never spins upJ

Stock cooling:
Max core clock WITHOUT (Not even one bad pixel, nada, zilch, nothing) artifacts 357. Temp…HOT (my fan on my case door was going nuts)
Max memory clock WITHOUT tearing 301 (Infinion 3.3)
Temp…HOT
3Dmarks
2001SE at 357/310-10150
2003 at 357/301-4400

After Modification:
Max core clock WITHOUT artifacts 378
Temp…COOL this result is perplexing. I can actually clock the card WAY past 390. But after about 380 I start seeing pixilating. This is usually associated with HEAT, but not in this case. I suspect voltage is playing an issue. The card runs at the same temp (my finger is pretty accurateJ) regardless of clock.
Max memory clock WITHOUT tearing 306. (Can run 308 for a long time, but sometimes get tearing).
3Dmarks
2001se at 375/306-10650
2003 at 375/306-4710

YOUR cost. Assuming you have everything except the HSC-V62, it will cost you $29 plus tax (Fry’s electronics). If you need most of the supplies, #2,3,4,5,7,and 8 the cost will be around $65 (American). You could do this for cheaper, but I RECOMMEND getting a HIGH QUALITY tap and dye set and drill bit.

MY cost. I am not going to say how much this modification cost me; it is to embarrassing. I will tell you that for the money spent I could of purchased the fallowing.
1. Special Edition chromed Zamen heat pipe cooler
2. Another Special Edition chromed Zalmen heat pipe cooler
3. And another Special Edition chromed Zalmen heat pipe cooler
4. One Crystal Orb
5. A #4 super sized at McDonalds (with out onionsJ)
6. And a pack of gum


CONCLUSION:
This modification is absolutely awesome. Barring any misshapes it is not that expensive for the performance you get. I feel my money was well spent (well, some of it). All I can tell you is that my card is NEVER more than warm. I was able to increase my clocks. This modification also SOLVED a problem I was having. I had a memory clock degradation problem awhile back. The people who helped me and I came to the conclusion that it was a heat problem. It turns out it was.
My results were somewhat disappointing, as I discovered there is something holding my card back BESIDES heat. I can successfully OC my card past 400. But, I get irritating pixilating. I feel that may be a voltage problem. I am not really running out the door to volt mod my card, so that will have to wait. Until I do, I may never know. My memory on the other hand has no such excuse. It is just crappy infinion 3.3. I feel this would be a more worthwhile mod on a card that has better memory, such as Samsung or Hynix.


After thought.
I feel really good after it is all said and done. If I had to do it all over again, what would I change? Well, nothing really. If I had not screwed up, I would not have mem sinks. Not to mention I am one of the few guys who can say he has about TWO POUNDS of COPPER on his graphics card.


Ugg, it’s finally over. And it only took me a few days (to write this post. Actuall mod only took about 6 hours of work. running around getting all of the stuff was the hard part.

Bottom line: If you have a card with good memory and a later revision, there is no reason why you would not be able to go past 400. Heat is NOT an issue with my card, it is NEVER more than warm. I have what I think is a older revision card. Not to mention my crappy infinion memory. Me and Chris431 have about the same results. http://my.execpc.com/~chris431/ (Check this out, another great guide)


P.S. For those who read the ENTIRE post, I am mailing you a brand new Radeon 9800 pro


P.S.S Just Kidding

[Ace M]

Here is a link to the cooler used http://www.coolermaster.com.hk/produ...1&product_id=7

[Lunatico]

GJ! so nice man! btw im cutting up some ramsinks soon and i need some1 advice. do you guys think it is better if the sink covers 2 ram chips instead of one? what would be best?. like 4 big ones or 8 small ones.

[medisyn]

great job Ace M you make me proud! getting the zalman would of been cheaper and easer but I imagine that you are far happyer doing our own mod. Keep up the great work. I have one question tho. Did you rip off the heatspearder like I did? heheheh my first accadental mod lol god im dum

[Ace M]

4 big ram sinks would probobly have more surface area than 8 small ones. more surface area=better cooling. If you core is cooled efficiantly there really is no need for ramsinks. But it never hurts to add them.

Keep it COOL and MOD on

P.S.No I did not rip off the heatspreader

[keillor]

Nice work.

One question though, that looks like a heck of a lot of weight to be hanging off the AGP slot, is there any support for that card to take some of the weight?

[dahkiam]

Just out of interest Ace M, what system are you running on? MOBO, mem, cpu...etc

[Ace M]

Originally posted by keillor
Nice work.

One question though, that looks like a heck of a lot of weight to be hanging off the AGP slot, is there any support for that card to take some of the weight?

You are correct, that is alot of weight. No there is no extra support. I had originally planed to make a bracket/stand for it using from a copper plate I purchased for this mod. Once I saw how much strain was on the card, I decided making a bracket/stand for it would not be needed. I am still thinking about it though, becasue copper looks great when it is polished



System
lets see if you guys can guess. The last two pictures I posted were of my comp. Whats in the box

[dahkiam]

what's in your system??? cables...lots of cables...


common, what have you got in there. There's a P4 but running at what speed???

[Ace M]

Ya, LOTS of cables. I try to organize them, but always give up in frustation. I just say screw it.
It sucks, because it kills airflow.

I could tell you what it is running at, but that would ruin all of the fun. Give you hint it is a P4 hehehe Hmm take a stab at it then I will tell ya if you want. Try to get the hole system

[Great2bFree]

Pretty good work Ace M, seem it took you a long time to manage everything together. Too much work like that would kill me. I would simply buy water cooling system, and cut the work load.
BTW good pics!

[Ace M]

Originally posted by Great2bFree
Pretty good work Ace M, seem it took you a long time to manage everything together. Too much work like that would kill me. I would simply buy water cooling system, and cut the work load.
BTW good pics!

Water cooling was an option. But my results show that it would of been overkill on my card. Not to mention it would of been more expensive then this mod, even with my screw ups

[Ace M]

*bump*

Decided to give it one more go around. Call me what you want, but I did it and there is nothing you can do about it mwuahahaha mwuahahaha Unless you are an admin

Keep it COOL and MOD on

[Piddyful]

Ace M, nice choice of heatsink. Not the ultra popular Cooljag like what I did but something different and still copper. It is true that bigger ramsinks across two chips at a time would have better heat dissapation but your individual ramsinks there certainly beat out my Tweakmonsters. I've got my card decked out, full dress and heat is no longer an issue for me either (you missed a heatsink on the back of the core) but I still can't get much over 400mhz core, so I'm assuming that's the limit on my card.

I know that wire management is a royal pain in the ass, but you are right about it killing airflow. You at least need to get that last ribbon cable out of there. I know you can do a little better with those wires too. Just try to run the wires in the corner behind the drive bays and put the excess wire up bundled by your psu. Something like this: Pic , Pic . That way when you take pics, just leave the top part out and it will look like your pc is cleaner than what it is: Pic , Pic . Not that I'm giving you a hard time now don't get me wrong. But your airflow would be much better and your overall temps will get much lower, allowing for higher overclocking, especially on the vid card. Mabye if you ditched the Intel hsf and replaced it with a Thermalright (which ever model) your overall temps would decrease as well, not just your cpu temp. Good job again on the vid card.

[Ace M]

(Remember, I have infinion, ramsinks do nothing for me)
My card is not heat limited. I highest "CLEAN" clock is 378. Anything higher and I get pixilating. I have tested it up to 400 core, and the temperature did not rise much. I am considering mounting a differant fan on the card. My only concern is space. As you can see from my pics, I do not have much room between my card's HSF and the nearest PCI slot. I cant remove the PCI card because I need everyone I have (I already opened 2 slots). I did find a 60mm fan that was only 10mm thick. It only blows 16cfm of air, and is rather loud (35db). It is a 3 pin, so I could use a Zalmen fan mate, but then it would not blow much more than the fan I have on there now. What I am looking for is a 60mm fan that is about 10mm thick, maybe 15. It would have to blow about 20-25 cfm, so when I tone it down it is still blowing a decent amount of air. The real issue is that it might be too close to the nearest PCI card. So I would have to have the fan sucking air off the card instead of blowing it. That is how most 1u coolers are used. In my case, I do not think it would be efficient enough.

If you know of a good fan, point me there.

You are right, I could manage my cables better. I have no extra ps cables, so storing the extras at the top is not an option. As far as that last ribbon cable is concerned, it is for my sound card. I have a audigy 2 platinum (have the live drive). I got this card to replace a sound blaster 5.1 platinum I "fried". I fried that card trying to replace the ribbon cable from the live drive with a round 80 pin IDE cable. Needles to say it did not work. I am not making the same mistake twice, that ribbon cable is staying in there.

As far as my overall temps, I have no issues. My cpu temp at idle is 38c under load it is around 42c. So, I dont think I need a new cpu cooler. I have 5 80mm fans in an aluminum case. Total I have 8 fans. If I have one complaint it is the noise.

Next time I redo my computer, (new CPU and mobo in augest) I am going to organize everything correctly. I am considering a water cooling solution, that will solve some of my problems. (except then there will be big tubes running through my case).

Keep it COOL and MOD on

[Retupmoc]

Welll...I've tried it and hope all goes well in the end. I somewhat followed your directions...but some of the other stuff is just blah. I didn't remove my shim but lets hope that doesn't affect anything. Below is my pictures of the mod.

http://josh.phraxion.com/ATI%209800%...SCN4027-1.html
http://josh.phraxion.com/ATI%209800%.../DSCN4028.html
http://josh.phraxion.com/ATI%209800%.../DSCN4031.html

Also...I used a GlacialTech - Igloo 2500 Copper Heatink (supports up to the 2700+...oh yay! LOL

[Ace M]

Hmm I dont remember writing "blah" I think that cooler (especially that fan) is going to be MORE than adequate to cool your card.
I dont see why you did not remove the shim? It is seriously going to hinder your performance. That cooler would have that thing chilled, but with the shim still on I do not know.
Hope it works
Good Job!


Keep it COOL and MOD on

[Mtnduey]

I read your great how-to & wanted to say a big Thanks I was gonna do a Zalman, already have it, and will put it on & see just how it works out but I will try this with maybe some variation here and there. I just wanted to thank you for the hard work & effort you put into this & for sharing it with the rest of us. Once I try out the Zalman & see how I like it & how things go with it I'll see if I still want to do a serious Copper cooling solution like planned or not.

But with this info, wow, tks so much for doing all that work!

I'm dead tired or I'd ask questions and stuff, so it'll have to wait till later.

~D2

[Retupmoc]

My turn! (Question wise that is)

Is it ok for it to bend a little. I redid my mounting and I made a little mistake the first time and now the screws will go all the way....ehhhh ! But now it warps just a tad...just checking to make sure it ok for now.

[Ace M]

Thanks, it was some work but TOTALY WORTH IT


Retupmoc, do you mean the card is bending?
If so, it is not that big a deal as long as it is only mildly bent. If it really tweaked, you could stress the board and it will eventually crack. When I installed mine I had the screws too tight at first, causing the board to bend a little. I lossend the screws, and it was fine.

P.S. If it is bent to much, you could stress the AGP slot. I dont think they were designed to take crescant shaped cards

Keep it COOL and MOD on