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Old Feb 13, 2020, 03:41 PM   #1
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gamefoo21
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PC Master Race The struggle is real... S3!

So guys we got to this point... Newegg wouldn't do anything, so now I'm making things work.

The TaiChi has some truly evil capacitors placed in bad places. So I took a page from AHOC and moved/replaced some capacitors.

The factory input caps sit 2/3mm too close to the chokes to fit a VRM block in. The caps are also way too tall for me to just flip them around to the back. My case mounts the board 12mm from the back plate. The stock input caps are 16mm tall.

So once you start replacing capacitors in one spot, you start poking at a lot of them.

So I've gone through and replaced most of the VRM output capacitors.

VRM input caps:
Stock: 16V 270uF x6
Upgrade: 16V 470uF x6

VRM filter caps:
Stock: 17x 6.3V 560uF 10-15mOhm = 9,520uF
Current: 11x 2.5V 820uf, 6x 6.3V 560uF = 12,380uF
Planned: 17x 2.5V 820uf 5 + 7mOhm = 13,940

The SOC rail has 4 of those caps, I had a pair of smaller 2.5V caps that I put on it. Which is why those numbers are a little awkward.

The 5mOhm caps are wide body, so I can only fit one in every other spot or mount them on the back. I have to order more of the small body 7mOhm 2.5V caps to replace the 6.3V caps.

Of course I put some of the ultra low ESR Panasonic caps onto the Memory voltage supply rail and control.

I actually kind of like the look of the caps on the board right now. Black Nichicons with silver Panasonic's. So I'm not sure if I'll swap the remaining caps.

All so I can cool the dumb VRM reliably when I'm doing bad things to the CPU. I still need to get a different VRM block to fit the long side and I need to sort the chipset cooling still.

Well probably to start with, the caps that I swapped beyond the input will hopefully pay off with a bit more stability on the CPU and ram when I'm pushing them with vigour.

Oh and the chipset cooling system is absolutely horrible on this board. Watercooling the GPU makes that lower plate an absolute nightmare.

Does anyone want me to post pictures?

Also my franken risen from the dead possibly V2 is a pile of parts, mods, and work. I wonder if I'll manage to have the fastest V2 under water. It's finally in one piece again.

Welcome to the R2V2 build...

Original name I know...
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Old Feb 17, 2020, 04:00 AM   #2
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What where you working on actually? Any background info is good, not just shooting all the beans

Is this continuum of some other thread?
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Old Feb 17, 2020, 12:22 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atomBomb View Post
What where you working on actually? Any background info is good, not just shooting all the beans

Is this continuum of some other thread?
This is a continuation of my Struggle is real threads.

1st was do I buy a 2700
2nd was Newegg stuck me with a board that I didn't really want and the reviews kind of glossed over some things.
3rd is this thread. Which is me basically making the TaiChi into a motherboard that is water cooling friendly.

The biggest problems I have with the X570 TaiChi is that the chip set cooler is an evil joke. If you remove the lower board cover plate it's got two fins to cool the chipset with.

The lower plate is also a nightmare if you watercool the GPU. If you want to add or swap an M.2 drive, you are staring down a full loop drain at the minimum. It also doesn't pivot and has a large sticky thermal pad for the chipset. It also. Makes adding m.2 drives awkward and completely defeats the purpose of the open ended PCIe 1x slots.

The VRM cooler is an absolute joke for prolonged loads without direct air flow. It's basically two fancy looking and heavy aluminum blocks. It's got a heatpipe but it's assembled with hot melt glue and the actual contact area is maybe 30-50% the length of each heat sink.

So I'm attempting to beat the motherboard into a decent board for use with full loop water cooling.

Ironically the TRX40 TaiChi has addressed many of these concerns, and actually has fins on the heatsinks.

Right now I'm making a passive chipset heatsink.
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Old Feb 17, 2020, 04:14 PM   #4
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was looking into it before i got the C8H

but the C8H cooler and fan is fine
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Old Feb 17, 2020, 06:31 PM   #5
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Yeah, the only reason I'm even considering mounting my Watercool.de chipset block on it is because without the top plate on it, the chipset cooler is horrible.

I'm also not keen on how that lower plate has to go on straight up and down while the M.2 drives will do there pivot. That and the thermal pad on the chipset cooler, is super sticky, I had to pry the plate off. So if the m.2 pads are similar, I don't think that's healthy for them.

As for my options...

I've got a nice little forged aluminum heatsink I've machined into allowing me to mount it. The other option is a copper one or I route the water down to the chipset.

The only thing I don't like about water cooling the chipset is the added plumbing complexity.
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Old Feb 18, 2020, 11:17 AM   #6
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Ok... I've been gawking at the interior of my Heatkillers chipset block.

I'm not sure if I trust this thing to not choke flow if I put it in the main path.

Unfortunately Watercool refuses to give up the flow restriction numbers on it.

With 6.5mm ID tubing and fittings I'd almost say there'd be no flow restriction at reasonable flow rates. With 9.5mm ID tubing, I think it would present a nasty choke point.

Depending on the bin of the X570 chipset, it can output between 11 and 15W of heat. Though I hear as long as you don't hang multiple m.2 drives off of it, it runs considerably cooler. Either way it needs at least a Northridge level cooling.

I'll pop up some pictures shortly of the inside flow path of the heatkiller. I did actually have to remove some rather nasty burrs that were left inside.

I've got some choices to make.

Pictures!





So it's a pretty restrictive little thing, despite it only using dimpling to increase surface area.
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Old Feb 18, 2020, 07:44 PM   #7
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one d5 pump it won't matter
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Old Feb 19, 2020, 01:32 PM   #8
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Yeah, I ended up mounting the block. I'm still deciding if I want to route the VRM block flow down to it, and have it reconnect on the GPU block.

The fun and headaches of trying to balance flow restriction, to force enough coolant through the CPU block. One thing I really appreciated with Koolance is they actually tell you the flow restriction on things, so you can do the maths.

Figure might as well use it, I've got it sitting here and it wasn't free.

So here's the sufficiently cooled X570 for running raided m.2 drives off of.

Picture:



Loop will be driven by two MCP50X pumps at the moment. I really can't afford to change my pumps at the moment.
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Old Feb 19, 2020, 01:42 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bill dennison View Post
one d5 pump it won't matter
I'm always leery about components making excessive drag. I swapped out a Koolance filter for the Aquacomputer one. It single handedly dropped 20-30lph off my flow numbers. I had to increase my minimum pump speeds about 5% to keep things over 100lph. Dropped max flow from 240lph to 210lph. That one single change.

Biggest difference is the ID of the filter's. The AC filter uses 6MM ball valves and channels, the Koolance filter is 9.5mm at the smallest.
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Old Feb 19, 2020, 09:13 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gamefoo21 View Post
I'm always leery about components making excessive drag. I swapped out a Koolance filter for the Aquacomputer one. It single handedly dropped 20-30lph off my flow numbers. I had to increase my minimum pump speeds about 5% to keep things over 100lph. Dropped max flow from 240lph to 210lph. That one single change.

Biggest difference is the ID of the filter's. The AC filter uses 6MM ball valves and channels, the Koolance filter is 9.5mm at the smallest.
i use two of these

https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-Whole...H20S/202073874
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Old Feb 19, 2020, 09:51 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bill dennison View Post

Filtering god I bow down...
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Old Feb 21, 2020, 11:49 AM   #12
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I made some very not right VRM blocks fit. I made some snazzy home made mounting hardware to cover those toasty running MOSFETs.

I could have purchased better fitting blocks but due to availability, one side was only available in Nickle. I already had copper for the other. So it was a $70USD not including shipping proposition, vs $30.

To my brain, having both blocks being actually equal in size is kind of pleasing.

I need to sort some of my home made mounting still, then there will be pictures. I should have just gotten some bits made, but machining ain't free and there is satisfaction of beating copper into shape.

Are you guys going to hate on the home made?
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Old Feb 21, 2020, 06:38 PM   #13
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if it works who cares

i never look in my case unless i am changing a part
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Old Feb 21, 2020, 07:03 PM   #14
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I suppose that's a good point, and it's not that ghetto...

The process is a process and here's an ugly shot of the progress, the barbs are temporary.

Picture time!

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Old Feb 24, 2020, 03:26 PM   #15
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That bridge is being an absolute nightmare.

I need to order different 90s for it. I'm going to try using an SLI bridge to make it rigid. The 90s have gotten rediculously hard to turn, I actually started to peel my thumb nail off...

The barbs are actually hitting each other and it's pushing the one block off kilter. I unfortunately don't have any stubby 9.5mm ID barbs.
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Old Feb 25, 2020, 09:03 PM   #16
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Progression...

My own personal X570 Taichi Aqua...



I decided to go springless for a more rigid mounting system.
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Old Feb 27, 2020, 09:45 AM   #17
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Posting updates!

More pictures and progress for the day...

A lack of clearance it seems:



Hack saws make such a mess:



No more sabre fighting here!



I finally made them connect properly:



Looking like it should!
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Old Mar 12, 2020, 03:33 PM   #18
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I are finished it mostly!

Behold my Asrock X570 Taichi 'Aqua'

It's not $999 USD and it's far rarer than 999 of the X570 Aqua produced... Mine is 1 of 1 and it cost me... Less than $500.

She's bootiful...







Hardened copper sucks to cut, also those fittings don't grip chrome very well, but they aren't going anywhere.

The winglet had to move up, as in the stock position it completely blocks adding a fitting.I carefully used a hacksaw blade to cut the winglet off, from the right angle it looks good. I need to get some filler and find some matching silver paint... The paint is going to be hard because it's like a dark silver, so it's not a standard tint.

I think it's looking pretty good and I had to fuxor with a lot to get it here. I like how the caps actually work with the colour scheme.

Now I'm trying to decide if I should reinstall the lower trim plastic. It does nothing and it's stupidly hard to get off because the clips are very tight. I honestly thought it at least had some shielding under it but nope, just plastic with a sticker on top.

Hmm... Decisions... It also looks like a penis, and once you see it, you can never unsee it...
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Old Mar 12, 2020, 03:51 PM   #19
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Interesting thing I found on this supposedly high end board...

My Z170 Gaming K4/D3 that I used for design inspiration it's audio system is oddly similar. It was a lower mid range board so... $150 vs $400 type of thing...

K4/D3: 9x 100uF, 1 row of 5 + 1 row of 4 Nichicon Gold Audio caps, 2x Ti NE5532 amplifiers, the traces for one runs to the rear audio panel and the other runs to the HD audio front panel header

X570 Taichi: 5x 100uF Nichicon Gold Audio caps in a single row of 5, 1x Ti NE5532 amplifier and the traces only run to the rear audio panel. The HD audio header seems to run straight off the Realtek.

Now is this because they know no review site actually tests front panel audio? I'd be horribly disappointed if this was an upgrade and I used the amped front panel for my headphones.

There are some weird things between the two boards that have been definitely cost optimized. Seems Asrock has also switched to running 100uF 16V caps on the 12V rails for the PCIe slots, everyone else uses 270uF caps on similar priced boards.

The VRM heatsinks on the Z170 have more effective fin area. The chipset cooler on the Z170 is literally a 3 or 4mm thick aluminum plate... Z170 runs chilly.

The trim plate on the Z170 is mounted with screws, and those screws go into brass inserts. The Tai-Chi's has 2 screws for the rear I/O cover. Though I guess it has an elaborate RGB array and a mirror... While the K4/D3 was lauded for bucking the brightly lit motherboard trend.

The backplate lacks any sticky tape or retention system, so if you don't install your screw down cooler out of the case, good luck. I have pity for the poor bastard who goes to remount that cooler or waterblock, because it's just going to fall onto the tray and disappear. I checked Asrock decided to forgo the sticky pad on the backplate.

Just little things, that you notice and kind of damage a board's impression.
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Old Mar 25, 2020, 12:11 PM   #20
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YaY for water cooling...

So because I don't have a single AM4 block at the moment, I've had to do some make do plumbing...

Really kind of disappointing that out of a pair of ball valves, neither seals very well, making for a slow leak, unless I stuff a plug into one end, but the down side is that when you go to drain you have to be fast and it's a leak no matter what. lol

Managed to quiet the pumps down, but my Maelstrom V2 is developing microfractures around the threads for the stop plug... Sigh... MCP50X tops aren't available so the pump goes with the res, and that's sad IMHO.

Oh and red dye... wow that stuff is hard to purge... Mayhems Blitz part 2 full run, part 1 full run, and part 2 full run... 10L of water later, and the water still picks up a hint of pink. lol
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The Eternal Struggle cheesekeeper AMD Radeon Discussion and Support 8 Aug 7, 2004 11:58 PM
Nice to see someone else struggle..... Ralph Console Gaming 20 Jan 17, 2003 01:55 PM


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