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Old May 18, 2019, 12:25 AM   #5971
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Nunz
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Every time I get in that Golf R, I hate my Subaru. The interior is fantastic, the adaptive suspension is fantastic, and overall the quality just feels ... above the rest. I honestly wish I had went with a GTI sometimes just for the VW interior. It’s so fun to drive. If I had the money, I’d own one. Not so sure about the MK6 vs the MK7 as the 2015 MK7 is the only one I’ve ever driven.

The GTI is fun but it’s a watered down experience and not even half the car the Golf R is.. If you’re going to do it, do it right; get an R imo. I’ve driven a 2015 GTI as well (guy I work with) but it was straight stock .. bored me out of my mind and slow. They do gain a lot of power just from a tune as they’re very conservative stock, so that’s something to consider.

Will be taking the Golf R for a spirited drive tomorrow now that you’ve got me talking about it
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Old May 18, 2019, 01:15 PM   #5972
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Hey Nunz, can you tell me more about the Golf R? What do you think about it?

I'm actually driving 3hrs tomorrow to Chicago to test drive two vehicles (along with a couple others). A Mk6 Golf R and a Mk7 GTI. The Golf R looks like a lot of fun, but I have to go back to a MK6 to afford it. GTI seems like it will be a lot more nimble/fun to drive while the Golf R would also support more power with the AWD and winters would be a blast. I looked at APR tunes today, so I'm somewhat familiar with them. Application is basically a daily driver that I could play with a little, be reliable, and have fun driving. Nothing crazy.
I would get an MK7 GTI over an MK6 R any day of the year. I quite like my MK7 GTi a ton though! It's the perfect DD with just enough power. The diff in the Performance package is magical. R is too much money imo for what you get.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gRfxc5Tmj1w
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Old May 18, 2019, 04:19 PM   #5973
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Thanks guys.

The test drives we're a blast. They had a nice curvey road by the dealer too. The GTI was FUN. This one didn't have the diff, but still drove great. A bit of lag below 2500rpm, was a turd. Manual car. No real complaints other than no power down low and also the sunroof was creaking an making noise. I know it's a problem with them, so ehhhh.

The Golf R? Absolutely loved it! That thing was fun with the DSG once you get the Race mode set and all that. I didn't like the throttle lag pulling away from a stop, but that can apparently be tuned out. So...I want the Golf R. This was a Mk7 too. The Mk6 at a different dealer was already sold. The Mk7 I drove is more than I wanted to spend. I have the dough, but have to decide if I want to spend that much. Really have to think this one over. Buy the white one I drove, or save up a little longer and get a different one later.
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Old May 18, 2019, 05:16 PM   #5974
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Nice! The manual GTI is a turd, the gearing is sooo long. The DSG is the way to go in either. Much shorter gearing, faster, and dsg farts.

Not sure about the throttle lag. Could be how you are driving it and turbo lag. If you release the brake and instantly go to the gas, you will have a delay. Though who drives like that daily?

The DSG will fully disengage the clutches depending on brake pressure when you are stopped, so if you press the brakes just enough to hold the car from moving, you will still have the clutches dragging slightly. If you press the brakes like you would normally hold an automatic car stopped, the clutches fully disengage and you get a lag if you quickly get on the throttle.

If you know the light is just about to turn green, just release some pressure on the brakes till you hear the rpm's raise and the clutches engage slightly. Then you have 0 lag getting on the throttle.

You just gotta learn to drive the DSG, you can't drive them like a manual, or a torque converted automatic or you will have a horrible experience.
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Old May 18, 2019, 06:29 PM   #5975
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Yup the DSG has its own driving technique requires that I still haven’t figured out. I also don’t like the way it feels from a stop, but it just takes practice. My buddy driving the Golf R drives it smooth as can be. I do notice when the car shifts from 3rd to 2nd with brakes applied you can feel it jerk a bit, but that’s really it.

The DSG just takes some getting used to.
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Old May 18, 2019, 06:40 PM   #5976
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Originally Posted by Nunz View Post
Yup the DSG has its own driving technique requires that I still haven’t figured out. I also don’t like the way it feels from a stop, but it just takes practice. My buddy driving the Golf R drives it smooth as can be. I do notice when the car shifts from 3rd to 2nd with brakes applied you can feel it jerk a bit, but that’s really it.

The DSG just takes some getting used to.
Haha, I honestly haven't figured out the cause of this. If you are coming to a stop, and when it down shifts from like 3rd to 2nd like you said, you can completely release all pressure from the brake pedal and it will continue to slow down at the same rate, with the engine rpm's holding at like 1500, till you get to about 5mph... I don't think it's keeping the brakes applied, but it might be applying the clutches on both shafts at the same time for the most extreme engine braking ever.
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Old May 19, 2019, 09:13 PM   #5977
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Started prepping the car for Wednesday .. downpipe is here, waiting on the new bolts/studs and EBCS to come in on Wednesday.

I have the Golf R to drive so started dismantling the car today. After 3 hours still don’t have the stock downpipe off. So many of the bolts are completely seized due to corrosion/rust and it’s an absolute nightmare. I’m worried about putting too much torque on the stud nuts because I might snap the stud in place and have to drill it out. I don’t have the tools to drill it out, which means I’d have to put the car back together half-ass and take it to a shop. This job is sort of too much for me without lifting the car. Working under it with the front end on jackstands just doesn’t give you enough room. Also, maybe I’m just a bitch but I do not like putting so much force on the bolts w/ cheater bars etc while the rear brakes are all that’s holding the car from sliding backwards.

I’m past the point of no return so it is what it is. I can’t get one of the O2 sensors out so after work tomorrow I’m going to Harbor Freight to grab a couple wrenches. I snapped 3 different ratchets today trying to get some of the bolts to break..

What a nightmare. If I had known it would be like this I would have just waited until I was taking to the car for the protune and let them do the install+tune in one shot. Not even enjoyable right now. I sliced my hand open in 3 different places from the wrench slipping .. blood all over the garage and on random spots underneath the car

Back at it tomorrow ..
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Old May 19, 2019, 10:18 PM   #5978
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Grab some PB Blaster from your local auto store:

http://blastercorp.com/PB-Blaster-Pe...ck-parts-spray

Spray that onto your bolts/O2 sensor and let it soak for a while. It will help.
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Old May 19, 2019, 11:06 PM   #5979
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Originally Posted by Mahjik View Post
Grab some PB Blaster from your local auto store:

http://blastercorp.com/PB-Blaster-Pe...ck-parts-spray

Spray that onto your bolts/O2 sensor and let it soak for a while. It will help.
Will try. WD40 didn’t do ****, that’s for sure
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Old May 20, 2019, 01:16 PM   #5980
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Will try. WD40 didn’t do ****, that’s for sure
WD40 isn't a penetrating oil. or an oil. or worth a damn for anything really.
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Old May 20, 2019, 05:14 PM   #5981
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found that out the hard way I’m afraid.

Going to head to the auto store now. Just woke up .. working nights makes shopping a nightmare lol
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Old May 21, 2019, 09:39 PM   #5982
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No time to work on the car tonight but I’ve sprayed it all down with PB Blaster Penetrating Oil for the past 24hrs twice. I’ll be spraying it again before work and then trying it Wednesday afternoon. I hope it works, because if not I’m screwed
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Eat this protein bar, for it is of my body. And drink this creatine shake, for it is my blood.
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Old May 22, 2019, 10:45 AM   #5983
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Rounded off the stud nut after 2 days of soaking in PB Blaster. Convinced that those products are all just a marketing sham and don’t actually help

Going to try ripping off the heat shield (won’t use them on the new downpipe, will probably 3M heat wrap it in a few weeks anyway) that is blocking a lot of the area around the nut, and try chiseling the bottom portion to loosen it. If that doesn’t work, I’ll try getting a dremel in there. If THAT doesn’t work, I’ll have to drop the headers, which will require an insane amount of work.

I need the car drivable by Friday and I’m worried I may not hit that mark if I can’t get the nut out with just bending and ripping the heat shield out of the way.

I’m a little in over my head with this one. Definitely wishing I had a lift because it’s a real pain working under there right now.
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Old May 22, 2019, 11:27 AM   #5984
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You really need a wide array of tools to do exhaust work. Two weeks ago, I changed out the exhaust on a co-workers car. While he was not incompetent, he would have run into problems with one of the bolts that had a similar issue to what you are experiencing. I have the tools to handle things like which he discovered.

I usually recommend that most people take their cars to an exhaust shop unless they have a lot of things readily handy (as sometimes you have to cut off exhaust bolts).
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Old May 22, 2019, 01:29 PM   #5985
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Originally Posted by Nunz View Post
Rounded off the stud nut after 2 days of soaking in PB Blaster. Convinced that those products are all just a marketing sham and don’t actually help

Going to try ripping off the heat shield (won’t use them on the new downpipe, will probably 3M heat wrap it in a few weeks anyway) that is blocking a lot of the area around the nut, and try chiseling the bottom portion to loosen it. If that doesn’t work, I’ll try getting a dremel in there. If THAT doesn’t work, I’ll have to drop the headers, which will require an insane amount of work.

I need the car drivable by Friday and I’m worried I may not hit that mark if I can’t get the nut out with just bending and ripping the heat shield out of the way.

I’m a little in over my head with this one. Definitely wishing I had a lift because it’s a real pain working under there right now.
lol... Get a torch and get the nut as hot as you can and then try taking it off.

Also, try Liquid wrench, I've found that much better than PB Blaster.

https://www.liquidwrench.com/product/penetrating-oil/
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Old May 22, 2019, 01:47 PM   #5986
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If there are any angles left on the nut, use a 6-point socket rather than a 12-point to see if you can get it off. Typically, exhaust bolts can get weak from heat cycling. Using 12-point sockets on them can cause them to be stripped easier than a 6-point.
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Old May 22, 2019, 04:08 PM   #5987
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These nuts started as 6points unfortunately and I was using a 6point socket. I have a buddy coming in a few minutes with a dremel and some other specialty tools, going to try getting it off one more time and then try chiseling, and then dremel if that doesn’t work either. I haven’t tried the torch trick but when I first tried removing them they were still hot as I ran the car up to temp before shutting down, jacking, and then beginning to take everything apart.

I started the work to drop the headers if need be, but I still have the oil and coolant lines that will need to be pulled and drained if I press on with that. I really, really, REALLY do not want to drop the headers for what should be a simple downpipe job. I found that the nuts holding the studs for the headers broke quite easily. Of course!

This job has passed the point of where I’d say I’m “enjoying” it though.
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Old May 22, 2019, 08:00 PM   #5988
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The downpipe is off. That nut was absolutely psycho; my buddy came with a bunch of tools and a lot of experience with exhaust work. We first tried filing down the nut so that it was a size smaller (14mm to 13mm), and then grabbing it with a heavy impact drill .. that didn’t work. We then used a chisel, and with a heavy hammer basically made a groove into the nut that we could use to hammer the nut to break the torque. The problem with this is that it’s possible you can split the nut and basically mold the thread of both together. Then we’d have to dremel and drill it for sure.

The chisel worked!! Made a nice groove, used the chisel at an angle, and got the nut to loosen. Grabbed the 13mm socket and impact drill and BOOM, spun right off. Got the stock boost controller off, entire downpipe out, used the double-nut method to get the 2 stuck studs out .. and she’s all ready for the install tomorrow.

My buddy saved my life on this one. I just don’t have the type of tools he brought with him. Also don’t have much experience with this kind of stuff. It’s rare we run into a ton of rust/corrosion on bolts on the aircraft as they’re inspected every flight so we catch them before they become a major issue, so it’s just not something I’m used to dealing with.

Learned a lot with this one. Going to cover all the internal threads and the new hardware in anti-seize before the install tomorrow; hopefully never have to deal with this kind of **** again.

I’m also going to take off the other 3 bolts left holding the headers on and anti-seize those as well.

I’ll have pics tomorrow and some video of how she sounds. No more resonator so that exhaust should be pop-pop-poppy on downshifts now
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Eat this protein bar, for it is of my body. And drink this creatine shake, for it is my blood.
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Old May 22, 2019, 10:18 PM   #5989
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Use anti-seize on EVERYTHING. Liberally.

My first winter with the BRZ was just ridiculous. Immediately after that, everything looked like it had been sitting in a salt bath for a decade. It blew my mind. That BRZ had more rust underneath it after that first winter than my XTerra had and it was 7 years old at the time. Every time I had to take remove brake hardware, wheel bearings, etc...it was a nightmare. Couldn't even get the brake rotors off. I used blocks of wood and a 3lb hammer and it wouldn't budge. Had to stick a bolt back through the caliper bracket and use it against the face of the rotor and put pressure on it until POP! My ZO6's haven't seen salt at all. The rotors just fall off from gravity. The XTerra rotors just needed a light tap, if even that. I never put anything back on that car without coating it in anti-seize first (where it made sense to apply it).

My brothers STI is the same way. The undercarriage is rusting, brake hardware, exhaust hangars rusted apart, even his swaybars.
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Old May 23, 2019, 03:20 AM   #5990
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Subaru is cheap. I’ve realized this after all the time I’ve spent in the Golf. You get a lot in terms of motor and transmission for the price but the quality of everything else suffers because of it.
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Old May 23, 2019, 07:26 AM   #5991
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Subarus rust like crazy, even in Texas.
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Old May 23, 2019, 10:37 AM   #5992
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Subaru is cheap. I’ve realized this after all the time I’ve spent in the Golf. You get a lot in terms of motor and transmission for the price but the quality of everything else suffers because of it.
Yeah, not to be a downer. The WRX's are fun cars, without a doubt. A riot in the winter too. They just have some issues with rusting.
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Old May 23, 2019, 11:32 PM   #5993
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The rear quarter panels are absolutely notorious especially on older Subaru’s.

The paint is cheap crap and super thin, the interiors are absolute dogshit compared to what you get in a VW, and the car lacks a lot of the modern features such as turning headlights.

But, at the end of the day, it is a really fun car to drive and it retains that very mechanical feel that the modern car world seems to be moving away from.

Woke up late as hell and didn’t have time to finish installing everything and double checking connections. I have the downpipe in but not connected to the catback yet. Was having a hard time getting it lined up properly but I was rushing to get it done before work. I completely removed the heat shields so now I have extra hardware that is making me want to double and triple check I have everything back properly. I covered everything liberally in anti-seize, so much so that somehow it’s now all over the garage floor, on my shoes, and before I realized it was on the bottom of my shoes I stepped on the carpet in the house. Will need to grab some carpet cleaner to get that **** out now ..

Will finish after work, hopefully finished up by 10am and then set the tune up and give her a nice 80mile drive. The boost controller is in too. I accidentally pulled the wrong feed line and sprayed myself with coolant ****in A
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Last edited by Nunz : May 23, 2019 at 11:46 PM.
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Old May 24, 2019, 08:02 AM   #5994
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nunz View Post
The rear quarter panels are absolutely notorious especially on older Subaru’s.

The paint is cheap crap and super thin, the interiors are absolute dogshit compared to what you get in a VW, and the car lacks a lot of the modern features such as turning headlights.

But, at the end of the day, it is a really fun car to drive and it retains that very mechanical feel that the modern car world seems to be moving away from.

Woke up late as hell and didn’t have time to finish installing everything and double checking connections. I have the downpipe in but not connected to the catback yet. Was having a hard time getting it lined up properly but I was rushing to get it done before work. I completely removed the heat shields so now I have extra hardware that is making me want to double and triple check I have everything back properly. I covered everything liberally in anti-seize, so much so that somehow it’s now all over the garage floor, on my shoes, and before I realized it was on the bottom of my shoes I stepped on the carpet in the house. Will need to grab some carpet cleaner to get that **** out now ..

Will finish after work, hopefully finished up by 10am and then set the tune up and give her a nice 80mile drive. The boost controller is in too. I accidentally pulled the wrong feed line and sprayed myself with coolant ****in A
You may already be doing this, but leave as much loose as possible while you're trying to align the exhaust bits.
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Old May 24, 2019, 03:36 PM   #5995
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Dear god it’s a monster.

Turbo flutter is a little annoying but it has so much more power in the lower RPM ranges. Woah.

Will post vids later. I haven’t had a chance to really stretch the gears out because of traffic but it’s very noticeable. Also had a loud pop on a downshift. Scared the **** out of me because I’m not used to it

It’s certainly a lot louder which isn’t something I was aiming for in particular, but it has a nice growl to it. Sounds more like an EJ now than the Honda Civic life of the FA20
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Eat this protein bar, for it is of my body. And drink this creatine shake, for it is my blood.
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Old May 24, 2019, 04:42 PM   #5996
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What all has been done to it again?

Is the turbo flutter only at low RPM or is it happening at full throttle/load too?
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Old May 24, 2019, 05:44 PM   #5997
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Only flutters until about 3k/4K, and only under heavy throttle/boost.

As of now the car is Stage2+ with:

Grimmspeed 3port boost solenoid controller
Grimmspeed Stealthbox Intake
Invidia Catless 3” J-Pipe
Invidia N1 Race 3” Catback

ETuned by Eric Minehart @ Torqued Performance.

The basemap he sent me is certainly running rich. When I’d hit the throttle to get the car rolling and then let off, it was puffing put noticeable smoke from the exhaust nearly every time. Definitely rich. I know what Roadhog meant with the catless “getting old” after a while. With the car running rich the smell is definitely a lot more noticeable than my buddies Golf R. I was stuck in stop and go traffic for about 30min and I can’t tell whether the exhaust fumes or the fact I’ve been awake over 24hrs and had far too much caffeine gave me the headache I have. Chalking it up to the caffeine and sleep deprivation.

Boost is on the low side. Currently overboosting to 22psi which is low. Once he refined the tune, like he did with my Stage1+ tune, I’ll likely see very little overboost but a very consistent PSI that holds. It’s definitely fun to drive, and it sounds great. I’m looking forward to it quieting down once the downpipe and new mid-pipe get some soot built up internally.
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Eat this protein bar, for it is of my body. And drink this creatine shake, for it is my blood.
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Old May 24, 2019, 06:29 PM   #5998
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Your turbo is going to explode with that much compressor surge....
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Old May 24, 2019, 08:03 PM   #5999
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Your turbo is going to explode with that much compressor surge....
Yeah, don't like the sound of it either. Are you still using the stock BOV and what's the A/F?
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Old May 24, 2019, 10:45 PM   #6000
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Originally Posted by Roadhog_ View Post
Your turbo is going to explode with that much compressor surge....
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Originally Posted by OverclockN' View Post
Yeah, don't like the sound of it either. Are you still using the stock BOV and what's the A/F?
I’m going to double check what the ranges I’m hearing flutter in, but it’s only WOT for a short time IIRC. I’ve read about people getting turbo flutter at this point but never anyone saying it was a huge problem. Most people said they would change the BPV to an aftermarket BOV only if they didn’t like the sound or were moving to a big turbo kit with higher boost.

Going to do more reading. I’m not a fan of the sound nor do I like the concept of turbo flutter on any level.
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