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Old Mar 3, 2016, 08:03 PM   #31
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Elysian
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Sold the M3D Micro, took a small hit on it, but that's alright. Been printing so much on the MakerBot, probably have 60hrs on it, maybe more.
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Old Mar 3, 2016, 10:34 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by Elysian View Post
Sold the M3D Micro, took a small hit on it, but that's alright. Been printing so much on the MakerBot, probably have 60hrs on it, maybe more.
How'd it go with your patent and stuff?

I assume this is to help make those parts and others?
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Old Mar 3, 2016, 11:02 PM   #33
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How'd it go with your patent and stuff?

I assume this is to help make those parts and others?
Yeah it helps a lot with my pending patent. Parent went fine, just have around a 2yr wait before I hear back from the patent office.
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Old Apr 9, 2016, 11:18 PM   #34
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My cheapo Netgear modem has been overheating, forcing me to reboot it all the time. I had purchased a fan for it, and that helped for a while, but it's gotten warmer lately, so I went ahead and made a shroud that allows me to bolt the fan to the bottom part of the modem housing.



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Old Apr 10, 2016, 08:00 AM   #35
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I find the printing part easy, its creating the 3D model to ones exact dimensions that's the hard and time consuming part.
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Old Apr 10, 2016, 08:16 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by Destroy View Post
I find the printing part easy, its creating the 3D model to ones exact dimensions that's the hard and time consuming part.
I do that part for a living, so it's pretty easy there too. Took me maybe 30 minutes to design the fan shroud.
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Old Apr 10, 2016, 01:51 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by Elysian View Post
I do that part for a living, so it's pretty easy there too. Took me maybe 30 minutes to design the fan shroud.
Cool shroud.

What software do you use to create these models?
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Old Apr 10, 2016, 02:13 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by fO Che -USA- View Post
Cool shroud.

What software do you use to create these models?
Inventor, have it through work.
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Old Apr 10, 2016, 02:52 PM   #39
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Did you have to do any finishing work or anything on it? Judging from the sheen that's a pretty damn accurate printer!
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Old Apr 10, 2016, 02:56 PM   #40
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Did you have to do any finishing work or anything on it? Judging from the sheen that's a pretty damn accurate printer!
I've not done much of that, haven't had a need since nothing I do use as a product is visible.
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Old Apr 11, 2016, 01:22 PM   #41
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I've not done much of that, haven't had a need since nothing I do use as a product is visible.
Yeah that looks more finished than most 3d printed stuff I see.

Do you have to tell it where to start? Or do you just load a model and it goes hog wild?
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Old Apr 11, 2016, 01:43 PM   #42
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Yeah that looks more finished than most 3d printed stuff I see.

Do you have to tell it where to start? Or do you just load a model and it goes hog wild?
The Makerbot software handles things pretty well, I just kind of let it do its thing. Here's the final version of my fan shroud, was having more issues and thought it might be RF interference from the cheapo fan, so I made a tube to move it away from the modem, and also force more air through (as the previous shroud didn't come very close to the blades while this one is very very close to them):




This one had a lot of support structure I had to remove, even had to sand the inside so the fan blades had enough room. So far so good, I set this up at 6am this morning, 7 hours later I can still connect to my router from work. I was having my connection go out at least once an hour, sometimes several times. I'm actually about to RMA it, but I'll use this shroud setup on the new router too, cause why not. That tube is also the largest object I've printed, it took probably 12+ hours. Was still running when I went to bed, and I didn't check runtime when I woke up.
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Old Apr 11, 2016, 02:37 PM   #43
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The Makerbot software handles things pretty well, I just kind of let it do its thing. Here's the final version of my fan shroud, was having more issues and thought it might be RF interference from the cheapo fan, so I made a tube to move it away from the modem, and also force more air through (as the previous shroud didn't come very close to the blades while this one is very very close to them):

[img]http://i.imgur.com/JHyXvNu.jpg[/imgg]
[img]http://i.imgur.com/Iu6Kqfu.jpg[/imgg]

This one had a lot of support structure I had to remove, even had to sand the inside so the fan blades had enough room. So far so good, I set this up at 6am this morning, 7 hours later I can still connect to my router from work. I was having my connection go out at least once an hour, sometimes several times. I'm actually about to RMA it, but I'll use this shroud setup on the new router too, cause why not. That tube is also the largest object I've printed, it took probably 12+ hours. Was still running when I went to bed, and I didn't check runtime when I woke up.
Sweet buttery biscuits

Nice
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Old Apr 11, 2016, 02:44 PM   #44
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I also have an IBM 5150 case that should show up today, I play on building a modern PC inside of it, so I'm going to be 3D printing stuff for that as well.
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Old Apr 11, 2016, 03:31 PM   #45
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I also have an IBM 5150 case that should show up today, I play on building a modern PC inside of it, so I'm going to be 3D printing stuff for that as well.
Woo neat.

Take pics cause I love stuff like this
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Old Apr 11, 2016, 09:11 PM   #46
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All the stuff I print is work related, and can't show the jigs/fixtures on here.
Otherwise I print chess pieces and useless stuff that looks cool.
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Old Apr 11, 2016, 09:20 PM   #47
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Someone like Kinkos needs to start a service where you can bring your 3D model in to a store and have it made for a reasonable fee.
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Old Apr 4, 2017, 04:20 PM   #48
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I just backed an affordable SLA printer on Kickstarter:

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects...r-sla-3d-print

Makers Muse and one other Youtuber have the printer already, and the stuff they've printed looks very promising. Hopefully it works out, I've wanted SLA since I had FormLabs print me a sample set of guitar pickup bobbins, which came out amazing.

I still use my Makerbot on a daily basis, it's great for my guitar pickups, makes cheap small parts that I don't have to order in, as well as proprietary parts related to my patent.
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Old Apr 5, 2017, 01:40 PM   #49
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I've been thinking of getting a cheapo 3D printer like this at some point:
http://www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-...14.html?wid=21

Just when getting a cheapo printer you have to get spare parts (driver mosfets, non fire hazard PSU etc) for about as much as the printer cost.
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Old Apr 13, 2017, 08:50 AM   #50
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Was trying to clean the nozzle on the Makerbot the other night and wound up breaking it... So I'm upgrading to an E3D Lite hot end and a SeeMeCNC feed system.
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Old Apr 13, 2017, 09:29 AM   #51
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Was trying to clean the nozzle on the Makerbot the other night and wound up breaking it... So I'm upgrading to an E3D Lite hot end and a SeeMeCNC feed system.
Congrats? :3
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Old Apr 13, 2017, 09:39 AM   #52
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Congrats? :3
I guess so.
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Old Apr 13, 2017, 09:52 AM   #53
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I guess so.
Deep down, you know you did it on purpose just for the upgrade
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Old May 20, 2017, 04:35 PM   #54
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I wound up buying a Monoprice 3d printer that's a rebadged Wanhao Duplicator i3, which is a copy of a Prusa i3. I've been working on upgrading it since I got it, and now I can show it off.



I've been printing with it for about a week now, and finally finished up printing the Z axis bracing kit (which is the orange parts). The Z axis is very stiff now. I've upgraded the hot end to a Micro Swiss all metal hot end, and the extruder to a CNC cut aluminum extruder. I've also installed a MOSFET for the heated bed to keep the contacts from melting off the control board.



And the enclosure is two Ikea Lack tables doweled together. The top part comes off fairly easily when needed, and the whole enclosure keeps things nice and warm so prints don't fail.

Now that it's all upgraded, I just started printing the parts to upgrade the Makerbot's extruder, so maybe I can get that back in service as well. Only upgrade I have left is to upgrade the carrier plate, and that should be here any day now.
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Old May 23, 2017, 09:22 AM   #55
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Was trying to clean the nozzle on the Makerbot the other night and wound up breaking it... So I'm upgrading to an E3D Lite hot end and a SeeMeCNC feed system.
We had a makerbot at work, but the nozzle kept clogging, ended up dragging threads everywhere and generally being a pain. We stopped using it and just went to a metal shop for the parts.

I'll assume that one day "home printing" will be reliable and less of a hassle. When it works it's great.
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Last edited by koralis : May 23, 2017 at 09:59 AM.
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Old May 23, 2017, 10:53 AM   #56
Elysian
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Elysian kills 99.99% of germs and leaves hands feeling freshElysian kills 99.99% of germs and leaves hands feeling freshElysian kills 99.99% of germs and leaves hands feeling freshElysian kills 99.99% of germs and leaves hands feeling freshElysian kills 99.99% of germs and leaves hands feeling freshElysian kills 99.99% of germs and leaves hands feeling freshElysian kills 99.99% of germs and leaves hands feeling freshElysian kills 99.99% of germs and leaves hands feeling freshElysian kills 99.99% of germs and leaves hands feeling freshElysian kills 99.99% of germs and leaves hands feeling fresh


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Quote:
Originally Posted by koralis View Post
We had a makerbot at work, but the nozzle kept clogging, ended up dragging threads everywhere and generally being a pain. We stopped using it and just went to a metal shop for the parts.

I'll assume that one day "home printing" will be reliable and less of a hassle. When it works it's great.
Yeah the Makerbot got too unreliable in current form. The Monoprice I have is much better, and now I've been able to print the part I need to upgrade the Makerbot to the E3D hot end I purchased. Will be doing that soon enough, hopefully I can get it back to reliable again.
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Old May 31, 2017, 02:03 AM   #57
andino
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So, I have to admit, I got the oldest kiddo (14 year old boy) a Anycubic Kossel Mini off of Amazon for $290-ish this Christmas. I've used it as a tool to show him how technical stuff is made and how programing works etc....

I thought that I'd never use the thing. Ends up I use it all the damn time. Bought some D&D tile models and I'm using them for D&D nights with the kids and friends. Made tons of parts for my kit. I've used it for making fidget spinners for the kids. Made a death star. The oldest 3d printed the Alamo for a school project. He has 3d printed trumpet, french horn, and mellophone mouth pieces. The oldest girl used it for 3 or 4 class projects.

At this point I'm thinking about using the summer to build a 1 meter custom kossel with the kiddos that is made from 2040 extruded rails. I want it to look something like this guys.




So long story short, I'm hooked on these damn things.

I did find that the little $300 kits are pretty damn basic and are great to get you into them. That being said, you instantly want to upgrade the parts because by the time the kits get to you they are already out of date. Mine came with a knockoff e3d v4 hot end, a xbox power supply, cheap rails that were not anywhere close to the same size (that makes a HUGE difference on print quality and effector tilt that can really screw up larger prints), no bed warmer, no auto leveling, no z probe, plastic molded corners, the old motherboard was a 1/16 step system etc...

So to date I have upgraded the mother board to the Duet Wifi (256 steps per rotation system) and the PanelDue touch screen controler.
I have upgraded the push rods to stainless steel rods and ball joints.
I will upgrade them again because I just bought the magnetic ball joints and precision milled carbon fiber push rods.
Got a proper 12v power supply.
Added a solid state switch for a bed warmer.
Got a bed warmer.
Got a micro IR sensor for auto bed leveling and bed compensation.
Put on a Noctua 40mm fan for the hotend radiator.

It's cool and all but the print size is too damn small on the kit printer. I want a larger print diameter than 85mm by 250mm-ish. So that's why I want the 1 meter one. The print diameter that DC42, the guy that I want to model my build off of, is 300mm diameter X 455mm high at center reducing to 405mm high at the edges of the build area.

Dudes blog is here. https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com/...-kossel-build/

Didn't think this could be so addictive. It really reminds me of custom PC building back in the day. Mainly because of the tracking down of people to make specific parts, finding the best at the best pricing, ordering a ton of stuff from overseas. It's really time consuming self building one but in the end it beats paying retail.
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Old May 31, 2017, 09:01 AM   #58
MasterGoa
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What is the trick for the plastic to adhere to the base at the very beginning?
Friend of mine has that exact printer and the issue he faces is that the plastic
does not stick to the base and it just rolls around making a mess...
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Old May 31, 2017, 10:01 AM   #59
andino
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MasterGoa View Post
What is the trick for the plastic to adhere to the base at the very beginning?
Friend of mine has that exact printer and the issue he faces is that the plastic
does not stick to the base and it just rolls around making a mess...
Sounds like he doesn't have his z height calibrated right? It should lay the first layer tight to the bed. If he has it at a .1 layer height then it needs to lay down a .1mm layer. If the head is at .3 and he is laying the .1mm layer then it wont stick.

1) He needs to do a G28 (auto home)
2) Put 1 piece of paper on the build plate.
3) Then a G1Z10 to put the print head 10mm above the plate.
4) Then lower it down to G1Z0 incrementally (G1Z9.9, G1Z9.8, G1Z9.7, etc...) and SLOWLY. So like this. G1Z5F500 for a slow speed.
5) If his Z height is correct then he should feel slight resistance when moving the paper around. If that is the case then his z height is correct and he can skip to the height adjustment at the towers.
6) If the paper moves freely then he needs to lower it down about .10mm or .01mm and repeat until he gets the right height.
7) then he needs to go into his firmware and readjust the z height to his existing height + his negative Z readout. For example say the z height in the firmware is set to 335.35 and he can go .4mm below that. Then his new z height will be 335.35+.4.. So 335.75. Save and upload the firmware back to the machine.

At that point he needs to go to his corner towers and adjust them with the end stop screws on his carriage to get his outside edges just right. Tell him that every time he adjusts the end stop screw he needs to G28 the device.

I used these positions to level the towers.

x-52y-30 Top Vertical
x0y60 Right Vertical
x52y-30 Left vertical

After he gets the towers the he needs to go back to X0Y0 and check his Z height again because it will be off if he changes his end stop height.

Once those were done I went to the mid points and fine tuned those as well.
x-52y30 Mid point between the top and right. Adjust the top and right end stop screws
x52y30 Mid point between the front verticals Adjust the front end stop screws
x0y-30 Mid point between the top and the left. Adjust the top and left end stop screw.

Then go back to the towers and make sure they are right.
Then go back to X0Y0 and make sure that height is right.

It was a pain in the arse to get calibrated by hand. Took about 30 minutes each calibration. The nice thing was once it was set then it was golden for a week or two.

Now with the Duet Wifi I just hit a button and it auto calibrates the whole damn thing in seconds.

Also, send him this link. https://duet3d.com/wiki/Calibrating_a_delta_printer

This:


And this.


Believe it or not the way you build a delta matters a whole lot in the print and the quality of the print. All his sides have to be spot on level and snug. same with the push rods. The kit that I got had adjustable rods. Make sure the rods are all the exact same length from ball joint to ball joint.

It is a giant PITA to calibrate by hand. But for $300 bucks you get what you get.

Tell him good luck with it. If he needs any help I'll be glad to give advice.

Last edited by andino : May 31, 2017 at 10:12 AM.
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Old May 31, 2017, 10:18 AM   #60
Elysian
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Posts: 48,696
Elysian kills 99.99% of germs and leaves hands feeling freshElysian kills 99.99% of germs and leaves hands feeling freshElysian kills 99.99% of germs and leaves hands feeling freshElysian kills 99.99% of germs and leaves hands feeling freshElysian kills 99.99% of germs and leaves hands feeling freshElysian kills 99.99% of germs and leaves hands feeling freshElysian kills 99.99% of germs and leaves hands feeling freshElysian kills 99.99% of germs and leaves hands feeling freshElysian kills 99.99% of germs and leaves hands feeling freshElysian kills 99.99% of germs and leaves hands feeling fresh


Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by andino View Post
So, I have to admit, I got the oldest kiddo (14 year old boy) a Anycubic Kossel Mini off of Amazon for $290-ish this Christmas. I've used it as a tool to show him how technical stuff is made and how programing works etc....

I thought that I'd never use the thing. Ends up I use it all the damn time. Bought some D&D tile models and I'm using them for D&D nights with the kids and friends. Made tons of parts for my kit. I've used it for making fidget spinners for the kids. Made a death star. The oldest 3d printed the Alamo for a school project. He has 3d printed trumpet, french horn, and mellophone mouth pieces. The oldest girl used it for 3 or 4 class projects.

At this point I'm thinking about using the summer to build a 1 meter custom kossel with the kiddos that is made from 2040 extruded rails. I want it to look something like this guys.




So long story short, I'm hooked on these damn things.

I did find that the little $300 kits are pretty damn basic and are great to get you into them. That being said, you instantly want to upgrade the parts because by the time the kits get to you they are already out of date. Mine came with a knockoff e3d v4 hot end, a xbox power supply, cheap rails that were not anywhere close to the same size (that makes a HUGE difference on print quality and effector tilt that can really screw up larger prints), no bed warmer, no auto leveling, no z probe, plastic molded corners, the old motherboard was a 1/16 step system etc...

So to date I have upgraded the mother board to the Duet Wifi (256 steps per rotation system) and the PanelDue touch screen controler.
I have upgraded the push rods to stainless steel rods and ball joints.
I will upgrade them again because I just bought the magnetic ball joints and precision milled carbon fiber push rods.
Got a proper 12v power supply.
Added a solid state switch for a bed warmer.
Got a bed warmer.
Got a micro IR sensor for auto bed leveling and bed compensation.
Put on a Noctua 40mm fan for the hotend radiator.

It's cool and all but the print size is too damn small on the kit printer. I want a larger print diameter than 85mm by 250mm-ish. So that's why I want the 1 meter one. The print diameter that DC42, the guy that I want to model my build off of, is 300mm diameter X 455mm high at center reducing to 405mm high at the edges of the build area.

Dudes blog is here. https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com/...-kossel-build/

Didn't think this could be so addictive. It really reminds me of custom PC building back in the day. Mainly because of the tracking down of people to make specific parts, finding the best at the best pricing, ordering a ton of stuff from overseas. It's really time consuming self building one but in the end it beats paying retail.
I've done so many upgrades to my Monoprice, it's not even funny. I'm using it to upgrade my Makerbot as well. I'd like to build a larger form factor cartesian style printer, just need to start planning it.
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