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Old Jan 27, 2022, 02:21 AM   #61
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ugly
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Originally Posted by Meteor_of_War View Post
What is specifically the symptom of the issue you were having? Did your DAC completely stop working, like it was unplugged? Or did it cut out and back in like what I'm describing happens with mine?
No audio at all. I'd have to double-check when it happens again, but the device is listed as an audio output device in the OS, but no audio is played.


The audio cut-out and back in does sound like a hardware issue. I've always had terrible luck with audio gear. My old speakers used to have a volume wheel and that would eventually get a bit dirty, which would continually cause one audio channel to crackle and drop out like you describe. A bit of electrical contact cleaner would help. Or replacing the potentiometer.

And with my current DAC (ifi nano iDSD), I had issues with the 3.5mm headphone jack. Plugging in the headphones into the 3.5mm jack mutes the RCA output for the speakers. But over time (it was only a few months of use), that 3.5mm jack would cause problems when I unplugged it and I would randomly have my left channel drop out on my speakers. I did an RMA on the DAC it quickly did the same thing. So my workaround is just always leave the 3.5mm plugged in, use an audio splitter cable so that the 3.5mm connects to my headphones and speakers and just cut the power to my speakers when I want headphones only.
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Old Jan 27, 2022, 02:27 AM   #62
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It's kinda funny... I try to leave extension cables connected, if I can, for hardware with a 3.5mm headphone jack just to reduce wear n' tear on a devices connector. Feels like they always wear out on me otherwise.

Had WAY better luck with 1/4" jacks. Those mofo's never seem to wear out on me
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Old Jan 27, 2022, 08:51 AM   #63
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No audio at all. I'd have to double-check when it happens again, but the device is listed as an audio output device in the OS, but no audio is played.


The audio cut-out and back in does sound like a hardware issue. I've always had terrible luck with audio gear. My old speakers used to have a volume wheel and that would eventually get a bit dirty, which would continually cause one audio channel to crackle and drop out like you describe. A bit of electrical contact cleaner would help. Or replacing the potentiometer.

And with my current DAC (ifi nano iDSD), I had issues with the 3.5mm headphone jack. Plugging in the headphones into the 3.5mm jack mutes the RCA output for the speakers. But over time (it was only a few months of use), that 3.5mm jack would cause problems when I unplugged it and I would randomly have my left channel drop out on my speakers. I did an RMA on the DAC it quickly did the same thing. So my workaround is just always leave the 3.5mm plugged in, use an audio splitter cable so that the 3.5mm connects to my headphones and speakers and just cut the power to my speakers when I want headphones only.
Thanks for explaining. My previous Logitech speakers had an issue with its potentiometer too. After some time the audio would crackle when adjusting the volume, and if I dusted it out with compressed air and turned the knob up and down a bunch of times it would clear itself out. I think this is a common issue with potentiometers though. But your specific issue does sound more like the AMD USB drop out thing.

Yeah with my issue I'm leaning more towards a hardware fault, either with the speakers or DAC. Just sucks that it happens so rarely, and I haven't found a reliable way to reproduce it at all. Will just have to live with it for now.
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Old Jan 27, 2022, 09:38 AM   #64
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I have some Altec Lansing pc speakers that have been in use for 20+ years now and the only issue it has is after a brown out or power out sometimes the amplifier in the sub would start humming/rattling requiring me to plug/unplug a couple of times to make it go away.

Honestly if it goes it's fine, after buying some real speakers for the living room last year I found out I was missing quite a bit of clarity. Either replace with iLoud MTM, Kanto YU6, Neumann KH80, or if I won the lottery some Genelecs (though these look ugly).
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Old Jan 27, 2022, 10:25 AM   #65
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These Edifier speakers and Schiit DAC are less than a year old. Which is another reason why I'm perplexed at the problem.

When intermittent problems like this happen I would honestly rather them just flat out die on me completely. At least then I'll know where the issue was and I can replace if needed.

Anyways still rocking away for the past few hours today playing loud music and not a single hitch.
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Old Jan 28, 2022, 02:02 AM   #66
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Originally Posted by Trunks0 View Post
It's kinda funny... I try to leave extension cables connected, if I can, for hardware with a 3.5mm headphone jack just to reduce wear n' tear on a devices connector. Feels like they always wear out on me otherwise.

Had WAY better luck with 1/4" jacks. Those mofo's never seem to wear out on me
I've bought a few of these extensions just so I can still unplug headphones without adding wear and tear to the actual device. Obviously, it doesn't help if it's for a jack that mutes other outputs.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016AHYRNW
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Old Feb 2, 2022, 08:35 AM   #67
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So for some reason it happened again multiple times yesterday - audio cutting out then back in randomly. I am now leaning towards it somehow being related to the dreaded AMD USB dropouts issue. Or just USB related in general.

Thought about it for a minute, then it dawned on me I can also connect my Schiit Modi 3+ DAC by Toslink cable to my motherboard, and don't need to use USB at all. So far its been good, but we shall see.

My concern with using Toslink was if it will somehow change or degrade the quality, because before with USB I was receiving a pure digital signal. But with Toslink it actually connects to the onboard audio interface of my motherboard. But so far I can't tell any difference in quality. I'm assuming maybe its also receiving a pure digital signal, and the DAC is doing the conversion to analog.
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Old Feb 2, 2022, 04:47 PM   #68
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Toslink for 2 channel is completely uncompressed digital. So you should be golden
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Old Feb 3, 2022, 10:02 AM   #69
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Toslink for 2 channel is completely uncompressed digital. So you should be golden
Yeah, it sounds just as good as it did when over USB. To me at least, I can't tell the difference so that's all that matters.

Pretty convinced now it was still the AMD USB dropout problem. Nunz, you suggested that first so you're the winner lol. Its just weird, I always thought that issue would totally disconnect a USB device. But if its indeed the problem here, then it can cause other weird problems too like audio cutting out and back in. Also I did update my chipset drivers to latest, and BIOS to the version that supposedly fixed it. WTF AMD?

So far so good over Optical (Toslink cable). I am also powering the DAC directly from power outlet, not powered through USB - to remove any chance of USB from my motherboard screwing with it anymore.
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Old Feb 5, 2022, 08:39 PM   #70
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Originally Posted by dodger View Post
I have some Altec Lansing pc speakers that have been in use for 20+ years now and the only issue it has is after a brown out or power out sometimes the amplifier in the sub would start humming/rattling requiring me to plug/unplug a couple of times to make it go away.

Honestly if it goes it's fine, after buying some real speakers for the living room last year I found out I was missing quite a bit of clarity. Either replace with iLoud MTM, Kanto YU6, Neumann KH80, or if I won the lottery some Genelecs (though these look ugly).

I actually like the way Genelec designs their speakers, but going from Altec Lansing PC speakers to those is quite the jump.


Neumanns are ugly as hell.
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Old Apr 7, 2022, 10:36 AM   #71
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So for some reason it happened again multiple times yesterday - audio cutting out then back in randomly. I am now leaning towards it somehow being related to the dreaded AMD USB dropouts issue. Or just USB related in general.

Thought about it for a minute, then it dawned on me I can also connect my Schiit Modi 3+ DAC by Toslink cable to my motherboard, and don't need to use USB at all. So far its been good, but we shall see.

My concern with using Toslink was if it will somehow change or degrade the quality, because before with USB I was receiving a pure digital signal. But with Toslink it actually connects to the onboard audio interface of my motherboard. But so far I can't tell any difference in quality. I'm assuming maybe its also receiving a pure digital signal, and the DAC is doing the conversion to analog.
Figured I'd give an update if anyone's curious.

Turned out the problem persisted even after switching from USB to Toslink. I did some testing without the Schiit stack, just connecting my speakers directly to onboard audio. Tested daily for hours over a couple weeks without a single issue. So I just recently sent the Modi and Magni back to Schiit for troubleshooting/repair and waiting to receive it back now.

It sucks that it took so long to nail down the source of the problem, but I am 100% sure its related to either the Modi or Magni being at fault. Luckily still under warranty. I just hope they don't find no issue when they test it and just send it back. We'll see.
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Old Apr 12, 2022, 09:52 PM   #72
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Curious what your impressions are before sending out the units for repair. I'm considering a speaker change as well. Currently using the Logitech Z506 5.1 system, but using it only in a 2.1 config. The center and surrounds arent hooked up. I could never get 5.1 working.

In my home theater room, before I stopped using it, I got use to my speaker system in my sig and absolutely loved that with PC gaming. It was unbelievably good. I'd like GOOD 5.1 and atmos again, but not sure how to get that in my office space yet.

So...entertaining the idea of a quality 2.1 setup to replace these speakers. I hear a lot about the Schiit products, but don't really understand the use of those components or what they do. I'll have to research it a bit.
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Old Apr 12, 2022, 10:09 PM   #73
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Well a lightning strike took out my speakers. Currently using an old JVC mini stereo system via 3.5->rca. I'm missing bass. Thing doesn't have a subwoofer out so anyone looking to get separates like Meteor might want to make sure it has sub out. Good news is it hisses way less than my PC speakers which granted were on their way out, probably was a lot quieter when they were new 20 years ago.

So anyone hooked up a small sub like an SVS 3000 micro to one of these Schiit/Aiyma/Geshelli/etc or everyone just sticking to bookshelves?

Last edited by dodger : Apr 12, 2022 at 10:37 PM.
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Old Apr 12, 2022, 10:45 PM   #74
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Curious what your impressions are before sending out the units for repair. I'm considering a speaker change as well. Currently using the Logitech Z506 5.1 system, but using it only in a 2.1 config. The center and surrounds arent hooked up. I could never get 5.1 working.

In my home theater room, before I stopped using it, I got use to my speaker system in my sig and absolutely loved that with PC gaming. It was unbelievably good. I'd like GOOD 5.1 and atmos again, but not sure how to get that in my office space yet.

So...entertaining the idea of a quality 2.1 setup to replace these speakers. I hear a lot about the Schiit products, but don't really understand the use of those components or what they do. I'll have to research it a bit.
I actually already received the Modi and Magni back from repair. Schiit said they could not find any problems with them. Which is what I was afraid of because the problem was very intermittent and you had to listen to them for hours before the audio crackling / drop outs would occur. But whatever, I'll just deal with it now as there really isn't any further recourse.

As for their use, the Schiit Modi DAC is essentially just an external soundcard. I also have a Creative Audigy FX internal soundcard but I was not too impressed by it (not much better than my onboard audio), which is why I decided to try the Schiit products. The Modi definitely sounds better to my ears. Clearer with better soundstage. First day I used it I started noticing subtle details in my favorite music that I could not hear before. But I am extremely obsessive and anal about audio fidelity. My wife and friends can't tell a difference when I showed them.

Regardless I think Schiit makes good stuff. Aside from the intermittent technical issue I have, its great sounding when it works.
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Old Apr 12, 2022, 10:49 PM   #75
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Originally Posted by dodger View Post
Well a lightning strike took out my speakers. Currently using an old JVC mini stereo system via 3.5->rca. I'm missing bass. Thing doesn't have a subwoofer out so anyone looking to get separates like Meteor might want to make sure it has sub out. Good news is it hisses way less than my PC speakers which granted were on their way out, probably was a lot quieter when they were new 20 years ago.

So anyone hooked up a small sub like an SVS 3000 micro to one of these Schiit/Aiyma/Geshelli/etc or everyone just sticking to bookshelves?
I have the Edifier R1280Ts powered bookshelf speakers which are the model with the subwoofer output. When you connect a sub they have built-in crossover.

So I'm using the Schiit Modi DAC outputting to the Edifier speakers, and have an Edifier T5 sub connected to the speaker sub output. I really love how it sounds.
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Old Apr 15, 2022, 08:00 AM   #76
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Those edifiers look really nice and I see they make a black model too!

I'm currently running an old Logitech 2.1 setup. I wonder if it's possible or easy to re-use the sub from the Logitech setup with the edifiers.. Hmm..
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Old Apr 15, 2022, 08:42 AM   #77
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Those edifiers look really nice and I see they make a black model too!

I'm currently running an old Logitech 2.1 setup. I wonder if it's possible or easy to re-use the sub from the Logitech setup with the edifiers.. Hmm..
As long as you get the Edifier R1280Ts model with sub out port, and your sub uses a cable that will connect to it I believe it should work fine.

Since you already have the sub there's not much to lose by trying anyways. This is the details from the Amazon page:

Quote:
EXTRA SUB-OUT PORT - A Subwoofer output with automatic detection for connecting an external extra active subwoofer. A built-in crossover is activated when the subwoofer is connected.
https://www.amazon.com/Edifier-R1280.../dp/B088685QVJ
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Old Apr 15, 2022, 08:45 AM   #78
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Yes I've been looking at a pair of R2000DB in black. They look damn good. Edifier is killing the bookshelf market with solid products
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Old Apr 15, 2022, 03:15 PM   #79
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So, now you guys got me looking at this seriously.

What I really want to do is get something that I can feed with audio from both my computer and from my TV.

Both of those devices support bluetooth so I suppose worst case you could just send the audio over that. I'm assuming though, that isn't really optimal.

The R2000DB seems to only have a single optical in and two component ins. I could possibly use the optical out on the motherboard to feed the PC signal and the component to feed the TV signal.

There is no way to feed a subwoofer with this model though it seems.
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Old Apr 15, 2022, 03:21 PM   #80
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There will always be quality loss over a wireless signal, especially Bluetooth. For a TV though? I bet it's perfectly fine.

I've been looking at the R2000DB, but I'm not looking for a sub for my PC setup.
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Old Apr 15, 2022, 03:22 PM   #81
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Only the more expensive R2000DB has bluetooth. But both R1280Ts and R2000DB have dual RCA line in so you can absolutely connect two audio sources.
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Old Apr 15, 2022, 03:33 PM   #82
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Looking at edifier's website it seems they also sell 2.1 setups that have a sub including wireless subs.

I'm truly dazzled right now. I have no idea what to buy. lol
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Old Apr 15, 2022, 03:47 PM   #83
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I'm currently running an old Logitech 2.1 setup. I wonder if it's possible or easy to re-use the sub from the Logitech setup with the edifiers.. Hmm..
Just noticed you said this. I'm not sure which Logitech 2.1 model you have but my old one had a sub with a proprietary connection and I could not reuse it with other powered speakers. Just keep that in mind as something to check.
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Old Apr 15, 2022, 03:51 PM   #84
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I'm leaning towards the S360DB right now.

Has a 8" wireless sub. I could just get a few bucks out of my Logitech setup and re-sell it to a friend.
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Old Apr 16, 2022, 10:25 AM   #85
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Best thing I ever did was just wire my PC up to my old technics hi-fi, as I specifically wanted audio quality due to playing my guitar through my computer on a daily basis.

Don't try and go bluetooth or wireless because it will lag, no matter how you tweak settings.
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Old Apr 16, 2022, 05:34 PM   #86
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I would use optical for the PC. Bluetooth for the TV.

What do you guys think of the more expensive 2.0 setups like the s3000 pro? Costs more than their s360db and doesn't have a dedicated sub.

Is it really better?
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Old Apr 16, 2022, 06:24 PM   #87
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I would use optical for the PC. Bluetooth for the TV.

What do you guys think of the more expensive 2.0 setups like the s3000 pro? Costs more than their s360db and doesn't have a dedicated sub.

Is it really better?
Are you going to use sources that can benefit from higher quality woofers/tweeters? Are you going to use a DAC that isn't dogshit like onboard audio?

It's not worth buying more expensive speakers unless you're going to start utilizing loss-less audio sources and converting that audio through a DAC that is worth a damn. IMO, just get something cheaper unless you're ready to go down the audio rabbit hole.
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Old Apr 16, 2022, 10:38 PM   #88
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Onboard audio from the PC and whatever outputs from the TV.

Maybe it's a waste to buy the S3000pro 2.0 setup. I just found it amazing that it can produce good bass and frequency response without a sub.
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Old Apr 16, 2022, 10:53 PM   #89
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Definitely a waste if you're plugging into onboard.

Plenty of bookshelves can do that. Not sure how much the S3000pro were, but above $400 a pair you can get some very balanced bookshelves.
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Old Apr 16, 2022, 11:55 PM   #90
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The s3000pro are 800 and are the 2.0 bookshelf setup.

The s360db is the 450 2.1 setup.

Both are super nice.
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