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Old Jun 13, 2019, 06:03 PM   #91
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Elysian
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You'll spend a lot of time getting those things to print well. I prefer the out of the box experience of my Prusas to any cheap printer I've ever owned. Even my ancient Makerbot Replicator 2 was better than the cheapies. Spent way too much time screwing with $300 printers when I could have just been printing.
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Old Jun 13, 2019, 07:07 PM   #92
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Yeah, the entry level had been around $300 before, $160 for a decent sized printer is crazy.


Agreed that it's gonna be a lot of tuning and hacking if you want really good results, but for largish parts with 200um layer height, a cheapy will do the business at least for a while. If you want reliable tolerances, good basic profiles, broad option and material support, and repeatable performance, you pay a bit more. If you're just tinkering, maybe that's not required, but if you're trying to make replacement parts, production parts, or anything with a timing constraint, it goes a long way, and it's why I ended up getting a Prusa as well ($750, if I remember right, without the MMU).
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Old Jul 13, 2019, 09:50 AM   #93
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Got my MMU2S running nicely. Printed this bobbin set yesterday.



And this is my model for it:

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Old Apr 14, 2020, 11:41 PM   #94
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Got my Ender 3 this week.



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Old Apr 15, 2020, 08:52 AM   #95
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Default Welcome to the club.

May you still have some of your hair after working on it. (I have two.)

Upgrades: All-metal extruder, flexible-magnetic print bed with PEI coating.

You also might want to invest in an auto bed leveler. I tried them, but I prefer CHEP's mesh bed leveler gcode for Ender3.

Finally, don't go cheap on the filament. Hatchbox is the way to go.
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Old Apr 15, 2020, 11:21 AM   #96
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I sold my MMU2S to a friend this week, I haven't used it in a while, customers just aren't interested in multicolored tops like that on their guitar pickups.

I did recently pick up an Epilog Legend 32EX laser cutter/engraver though. It's got a 32" x 20" work area, and even though it was made in 2002 it's more capable by a long shot than my cheap 2016 Chinese laser cutter, which I sold.

Sadly, the previous owner claimed it worked perfectly but wouldn't show me it actually cutting because he stripped out a screw on the head (seems convenient), which caused the head to wobble in place. I brought it home thinking I bought a $2500 working Epilog, only to find out the laser didn't work at all. I sent the parts in to have things tested and the gas tube refilled, only to find out it was more broken than expected. My $2500 Epilog wound up costing me $6500 in the end, I could have just bought an Epilog Mini.


The Legend works fantastically now though. I have no recourse besides small claims court to get any money back from the previous owner, who blocked me on Facebook, so I'm basically forced to eat it.

New old laser:



Couple of samples:




And an engraving from the old laser for comparison's sake:



Amazing that a laser from 2002 is more capable than a machine made in 2016.
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Old Apr 15, 2020, 12:08 PM   #97
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Originally Posted by Bires View Post
May you still have some of your hair after working on it. (I have two.)

Upgrades: All-metal extruder, flexible-magnetic print bed with PEI coating.

You also might want to invest in an auto bed leveler. I tried them, but I prefer CHEP's mesh bed leveler gcode for Ender3.

Finally, don't go cheap on the filament. Hatchbox is the way to go.
Man, I'm sure there's some quality variance in production, but the Ender 3 has been freaking amazing, coming from an MP Delta Mini; I was so fed up with it, but enjoyed making things enough to upgrade to the Ender. Shortly after, the power cord got wrapped around one of the legs of the Delta and I accidentally pulled it off the table to the floor and some stuff came loose/off. I wasn't even mad, I just moved it to the corner to "fix" one day and it's been there for the last 6 months or so.

I'll also X2 on CHEP's bed leveler. Its what I use and it works fine, can't complain. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_EfWVUJjBdA
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Old Apr 15, 2020, 11:37 PM   #98
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what do you all recommend for a 3d printer under $1000?

Been thinking about buying one for awhile ready to bite the bullet...

would be mostly for hobby usage, making board game pieces, we've invented a couple board games, gears, kids projects, my projects ...etc

multi colors...

thoughts on this one?
https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-Digila...011847&sr=8-12


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Old Apr 16, 2020, 01:30 AM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vanz_007 View Post
what do you all recommend for a 3d printer under $1000?

Been thinking about buying one for awhile ready to bite the bullet...

would be mostly for hobby usage, making board game pieces, we've invented a couple board games, gears, kids projects, my projects ...etc

multi colors...

thoughts on this one?
https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-Digila...011847&sr=8-12


V
If you are making game pieces and small things you may want to look into the LCD resin printers. I have a Epax X-1 and love it. I think they run about $450ish. They have a Epax X-10 that is bigger for around $1,200ish. I was looking into one of those before Covid.
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Old Apr 18, 2020, 11:45 PM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vanz_007 View Post
what do you all recommend for a 3d printer under $1000?

Been thinking about buying one for awhile ready to bite the bullet...

would be mostly for hobby usage, making board game pieces, we've invented a couple board games, gears, kids projects, my projects ...etc

multi colors...

thoughts on this one?
https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-Digila...011847&sr=8-12


V

I've heard dremel machines are pretty good, but for that kind of budget I think the default go to is still the Prusa MK3s.


There exist better printers and printers with more options, but it's pretty high end in terms of print quality and speed for this type of printer, is completely open (can print replacement parts or mods, can get parts for virtually any breakdown, can use almost any filament, etc.), it has a ton of safety/reliability features, and it's difficult to find something that can match it all for double the price. If you can afford more than the like $300-400 range, outside of special requirements, the Prusa is a great buy.


Resin printers are basically unmatched for smoothness and print resolution, but they are slower for larger parts, have their own limitations with bulb/film runtime before replacement, and are really a nasty mess to deal with in terms of the resin. Basically every resin available is at least somewhat toxic and smells bad, so there's a whole slew of things you need to do to get a clean, safe to handle part, and you really need to establish a whole workflow and process to keep contaminated parts from getting into other things. Doable, but it requires some planning, commitment, and table space that FDM printers don't usually. Unless you're making small parts that need the precision (like tabletop miniatures), a traditional style FDM printer will be faster and better for structural parts, plus you can use it with standard filaments and settings with almost no additional prep, space, post processing, or handling equipment.
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Old Apr 19, 2020, 11:55 AM   #101
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thanks for the info...
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