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Old May 31, 2017, 10:19 AM   #61
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Elysian
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MasterGoa View Post
What is the trick for the plastic to adhere to the base at the very beginning?
Friend of mine has that exact printer and the issue he faces is that the plastic
does not stick to the base and it just rolls around making a mess...
Has he tried glue stick?
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Old May 31, 2017, 05:21 PM   #62
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Yes... With very mixed results.
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Old May 31, 2017, 05:24 PM   #63
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Originally Posted by andino View Post
Sounds like he doesn't have his z height calibrated right? It should lay the first layer tight to the bed. If he has it at a .1 layer height then it needs to lay down a .1mm layer. If the head is at .3 and he is laying the .1mm layer then it wont stick.

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Old May 31, 2017, 06:01 PM   #64
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Originally Posted by MasterGoa View Post


Just like adjusting valve play, back in the day
Pretty much. Adjust one thing and others are off by a little. Just find the happy medium and that should do the trick.

After that initial set up point, if the builds become funky then the fine adjustments aren't that bad.

It's just a huge PIA. Because basically you are setting up a 3 point pendulum to be perfectly level with a print bed that may or may not be off itself.

Fun times.

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Old May 31, 2017, 11:02 PM   #65
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Also I read that protecting it from air and breezes is essential
as the plastic can harden up right outside the nozzle...
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Old Jun 1, 2017, 03:04 AM   #66
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Originally Posted by MasterGoa View Post
Also I read that protecting it from air and breezes is essential
as the plastic can harden up right outside the nozzle...
I have found that it really all depends on the size of the print, the ambient temps of the room, and the heated bed if you are using one.

On small prints I like the first layer to be fan free and no bed warmer. That way it lays down nice and even. If I print a large object then I like to use the blower fan at 50% on the first layer and ramp up to 100% the rest of the time. The bed warmer keeps it really pliable enough at 60C to stay down and not lift when cooling. Sometimes a little cool down makes it stay nice and true on the outside edge until you can get the second layer on. It's not so much of a problem with the first layer on small prints though. PLA cool down and shrinking is a HUGE problem on large builds without a bed warmer. That's why I got the bed warmer. Noticed distorted layers from cooling and lifting of the print when it cooled.

So, it really all depends on the size of the print and the quality of the bed warmer that you are using. So long as it can keep the first few layers of the build at 60C until the top layers get laid down then there shouldn't be that much of a problem.

Now, if I am bridging something I crank the fans up and slow the bridging speed down a lot in that print. I also drop my temps a little so that it basically doesn't droop out of the nozzle.





That's some fine tuning there.
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Old Jun 1, 2017, 08:46 AM   #67
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Originally Posted by MasterGoa View Post
Also I read that protecting it from air and breezes is essential
as the plastic can harden up right outside the nozzle...
For ABS, absolutely. For PLA, no enclosure is necessary, you want PLA to harden up pretty quickly usually, especially if bridging. I run an enclosure on my printer, but I'll leave the door open if I'm doing PLA.
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Old Jun 1, 2017, 10:26 AM   #68
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Thanks for the tips guys!
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Old Jun 7, 2017, 07:09 PM   #69
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Just got the carbon fiber push rods with the magnetic ends.

https://www.blueeaglelabs.com/

The metal corners, metal carriage, metal effector plate, and metal fan holder are on their way from China. They are in Loiusville today on their way to OKC.

https://www.robotdigg.com

I'm going to print off a new effector and carriage out of PETG for the magnetic push rods once all the metal parts get in . Then I will see if the magnetic stuff gets better results.
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Old Jun 7, 2017, 10:05 PM   #70
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My Makerbot works again, got a good mount for the E3D Lite6 and now the Makerbot prints like a dream.
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Old Jun 10, 2017, 04:23 AM   #71
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Got all the metal parts in place.

The hot end doesn't fit.

The kit I have is a V5 type and the new effector is a V6.....

I should have caught that.

Long story short, looks like I got a new hot end on the way.....

Now I have to design a mount for a 4010 blower fan for cooling the builds.
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Old Jun 17, 2017, 12:13 AM   #72
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So, I have it up and running now. The only thing that I am missing are filament cooling fans for the print head.

I downloaded Autodesk Inventor and went to work designing a bracket and some fan ducts for some 4010mm blower fans that I have laying around. I'm printing them out now and hope to have them on by tomorrow.

I'm toying with putting some LED lights on the blower fan ducts to light up the print bed. Don't know if that is something that I want to do or not at this point. The 14 year old has asked for something though. He hates watching the printer for the first few layers and holds a flash light to see if it lays down right.

I haven't put the magnetic arms on either. In trying to get the printer functional I stumbled on to a pretty damn good calibration. When I run G32 auto calibration I get it to within .006 deviation pretty regularly. My prints are freaking great to this point except for the cooling. So I may hold off of the magnetic arms for a while.
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Old Jun 17, 2017, 01:40 AM   #73
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Is there a semi-affordable printer that you dont have to upgrade all the parts to make it decent?
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Old Jun 20, 2017, 01:19 AM   #74
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Is there a semi-affordable printer that you dont have to upgrade all the parts to make it decent?
I got a $300.00 AnyCubic Kossel kit off of amazon, used it for 6 months, and then upgraded. It seems to be easier that way. It's also how a lot of people go about getting into 3D printing. You get into one for not a lot of money. It's a hobby item anyway. Once you get experience on the $300 one you can upgrade to whatever you want and then you don't break a $900 machine...

3D printers break pretty easily if you don't know what you are doing with them. It's much easier on the wallet to learn those lessons on a $300 machine too.

I got the small kossel but if I had it to do all over again I'd get the bigger one for a bigger print area. It's here. https://www.amazon.com/Anycubic-Vers...words=anycubic

Even though they say the print size is 230mm x 270mm it's not.
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Old Jul 23, 2017, 09:11 PM   #75
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I got my SLA 3D printer, holy cow is it awesome. It's Moai, made by Peopoly, and it is greatness.



And I've been working on printing guitar parts:



I accidentally dinged it while it wasn't fully cured, but I'm getting the of it.
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Old Jul 23, 2017, 09:42 PM   #76
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Originally Posted by Elysian View Post
I got my SLA 3D printer, holy cow is it awesome. It's Moai, made by Peopoly, and it is greatness.



And I've been working on printing guitar parts:



I accidentally dinged it while it wasn't fully cured, but I'm getting the of it.
Thats really awesome. I have heard about these 3d printers but I don't really understand there capabilities. I haven't done research but the idea almost seems to good to be true.

So most projects are just plastic? If you are making pickups for a guitar that requires magnets, metal and plastic.. that seems almost impossible to me.

Not that I am ever going to invest in 1 but I really should do some research into 3d printers.
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Old Jul 23, 2017, 10:54 PM   #77
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Thats really awesome. I have heard about these 3d printers but I don't really understand there capabilities. I haven't done research but the idea almost seems to good to be true.

So most projects are just plastic? If you are making pickups for a guitar that requires magnets, metal and plastic.. that seems almost impossible to me.

Not that I am ever going to invest in 1 but I really should do some research into 3d printers.
I only print the plastic parts, the rest are already manufactured. I make completely custom pickups.
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Old Jul 23, 2017, 11:13 PM   #78
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I nabbed a 3d printer too, working on printing a Praetor suit from Doom, so far so good. I go with ABS for the durability. To adhere to the plate mix leftover plastic with pure acetone and paint it on there, I end up pulling off all my blue tape and often have to scrape the tape off the print.
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Old Jun 7, 2018, 11:26 PM   #79
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Hate to bring this thread out of storage but I felt the need.

I upgraded the heck out of my setup with a Duet Wifi and a Panel Due. Also added the Delta Smart Effector plate.

Now I can do auto bed leveling and I have the error rate down to .002mm... I am knocking out some pretty fine prints. I am experimenting with layer heights in the .10mm range. It's doing pretty well. The prints are amazing with the .40mm nozzle.

In a couple of weeks I am going to replace the .40 nozzle with a .10 nozzle and try to do some micro fine prints.

The oldest has already printed a Luke Skywalker light saber and glued all the parts together and painted it. It looks pretty cool. He is working on a Han blaster now. I raise nerds.

I'll update with pics when I get back from vacation.
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Old Jun 12, 2019, 04:39 PM   #80
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Picked up a EPAX X1 off of Amazon the other day. It arrived today. I'm doing the first print now.

https://www.amazon.com/EPAX-Printer-...ct_top?ie=UTF8

Like $500 for a UV LCD printer.

I'll post pics when it finishes printing.
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Old Jun 12, 2019, 05:22 PM   #81
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I wound up selling my Moai and replaced with with 2 Prusa i3 MK3S'. I have the MMU2S upgrade for one of them but not had time to set it up yet.
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Old Jun 12, 2019, 06:02 PM   #82
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Old thread... but I got a Prusa i3 MK3 in January and have several hundred hours of printing in it now. Just two weeks ago my MMU2S upgrade arrived and I've swapped over to the MK3S/MMU2S combo and have done my first few successful multicolor prints.


The build instructions are pretty comprehensive, but they don't really emphasize some steps which can get you caught up. Make sure you run the IR sensor "calibration" described in the handbook before you run the wizard after a full setup or you'll sort of soft-lock at the Z height calibration step. It also makes a BIG difference how smooth the filament path is to the MMU2S - the buffer works fairly well, but any extra friction in the PTFE tubes can lead to load/unload trouble. In the same way, you don't want to print with too hot a nozzle temperature - I had been printing a bit over on my MK3 to get a better sheen and adhesion even with extra stringing, but the strings can confuse the sensor and gum up the tube after several tool changes with the MMU2S, so I've been down-tuning my temperatures for the same materials to get better looking ends when the filaments are pulled out of the hotend. Setup for my MMU2S and extruder upgrade MK3 -> MK3S was.... 8 hours or so at a slowish pace? But trying to get over glitches with the load/unload and reconfiguring where stuff was to avoid issues has taken quite a bit longer... it does feel like I'm close to out of the woods, though, and it prints in a single color just fine like it did before.



I've also decided that with my layout, the filament buffer doesn't make sense, so I'm going to use self-rewinding spool holders to get them placed in a place that makes sense for my setup (an enclosure built on top of a cart), these https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3338467 . I think the best use of the buffer I've seen is mounted on the wall in the corner of the room, with the filaments arranged above it - seems great for ease of access, but if humidity control is an issue it could be tricky to stop. I had fine results with no drying for most of my filaments in the winter, but now the ambient humidity is over 60% indoors, so stuff like nylon or TPU goes bad in a day whereas PETG has some visible difference in a day but is usable and ABS gets very fine bubbles/imperfections after a few days sitting in the humidity.




And I built an enclosure for mine a few months ago for ABS and think I got the temperature tuned right.... I use a heat lamp on a thermal controller and my chamber temp is about 50C when printing ABS to prevent cracks and minimize warping on long, flat parts, which are sort of the ones that show it the most. Gotta keep the PSU outside of the box and I'd be hesitant to go further, but on my last full-plate ABS print I managed to get a little warping on one long part because the parts actually pulled the spring steel up from the magnets, so I need to avoid doing a full bed worth of those parts, but I guess adhesion is good.
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Old Jun 12, 2019, 07:02 PM   #83
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Originally Posted by DaJMasta View Post
Old thread... but I got a Prusa i3 MK3 in January and have several hundred hours of printing in it now. Just two weeks ago my MMU2S upgrade arrived and I've swapped over to the MK3S/MMU2S combo and have done my first few successful multicolor prints.


The build instructions are pretty comprehensive, but they don't really emphasize some steps which can get you caught up. Make sure you run the IR sensor "calibration" described in the handbook before you run the wizard after a full setup or you'll sort of soft-lock at the Z height calibration step. It also makes a BIG difference how smooth the filament path is to the MMU2S - the buffer works fairly well, but any extra friction in the PTFE tubes can lead to load/unload trouble. In the same way, you don't want to print with too hot a nozzle temperature - I had been printing a bit over on my MK3 to get a better sheen and adhesion even with extra stringing, but the strings can confuse the sensor and gum up the tube after several tool changes with the MMU2S, so I've been down-tuning my temperatures for the same materials to get better looking ends when the filaments are pulled out of the hotend. Setup for my MMU2S and extruder upgrade MK3 -> MK3S was.... 8 hours or so at a slowish pace? But trying to get over glitches with the load/unload and reconfiguring where stuff was to avoid issues has taken quite a bit longer... it does feel like I'm close to out of the woods, though, and it prints in a single color just fine like it did before.



I've also decided that with my layout, the filament buffer doesn't make sense, so I'm going to use self-rewinding spool holders to get them placed in a place that makes sense for my setup (an enclosure built on top of a cart), these https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3338467 . I think the best use of the buffer I've seen is mounted on the wall in the corner of the room, with the filaments arranged above it - seems great for ease of access, but if humidity control is an issue it could be tricky to stop. I had fine results with no drying for most of my filaments in the winter, but now the ambient humidity is over 60% indoors, so stuff like nylon or TPU goes bad in a day whereas PETG has some visible difference in a day but is usable and ABS gets very fine bubbles/imperfections after a few days sitting in the humidity.




And I built an enclosure for mine a few months ago for ABS and think I got the temperature tuned right.... I use a heat lamp on a thermal controller and my chamber temp is about 50C when printing ABS to prevent cracks and minimize warping on long, flat parts, which are sort of the ones that show it the most. Gotta keep the PSU outside of the box and I'd be hesitant to go further, but on my last full-plate ABS print I managed to get a little warping on one long part because the parts actually pulled the spring steel up from the magnets, so I need to avoid doing a full bed worth of those parts, but I guess adhesion is good.
I love the MK3S, it's such a great printer. I installed E3D Nozzle X's on both of mine, and have textured build plates. I love the texture, I use it on my guitar pickups.



I recently got the mythical Prusa textured plate, and there was a small spot without texture. I post about it in a Prusa group, not complaining because I don't print to the extends, but someone from Prusa reached out to me and told me they were sending me a new textured plate. I told them I really didn't need it, I'm really happy with the first plate, but they insisted, so now I have 2 Prusa textured plates and two from Thekkinggggg (Amazon seller out of Canada).
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Old Jun 12, 2019, 07:23 PM   #84
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Very nice! I've got the smooth plates and they still work pretty well, I just use glue stick for everything.... which I recently found out the brand actually matters. The Czech stick it shipped with worked great, then I tried the local store brand when it ran out - slightly harder but applied fine all the same.... worked for ABS and sort of PLA, but not PETG at all. Months into using it (and printing mostly non-PETG) and at my wit's end changing dozens of settings with almost no bed adhesion..... I switched to Elmers all purpose and my issue went away


I was getting good results on my MK3 and in the process of upgrading to the MK3S I found out two bearings on the Y axis could slide around and my X axis belt was loose.... the finish is smoother now But yeah, almost no signs of wear, almost no build up of plastic shreds or strings, and almost no failed prints because of the printer itself, I've been very happy with mine.
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Old Jun 12, 2019, 10:36 PM   #85
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Get a textured plate, you'll never need glue stick. I print everything directly on it. Only thing is to make sure it cools completely before removing prints, as they stick that well.
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Old Jun 13, 2019, 01:16 AM   #86
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That texture looks awesome on those pickups.
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Old Jun 13, 2019, 01:31 AM   #87
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So I'm 2 prints in and I made the test piece that came with the printer and a little tiny Defiant from Star Trek. I wanted to see the detail on smaller objects. I was impressed.

Here are the pics.









Sorry for the HUGE pics.The resin stinks. Also I need to cure them. They are currently sticky. That goes away once it is cured. So I hear.
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Old Jun 13, 2019, 08:38 AM   #88
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I hated cleaning up resin prints, and the brittleness of most resins. The stickiness sometimes doesn't go away after printing. The resin manufacturer should have info on post-processing, but some don't. If all else fails, isopropyl alcohol and a toothbrush
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Old Jun 13, 2019, 02:14 PM   #89
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That's fantastic detail for a $500 printer! I've stayed away from SLA so far because of the expense/cleaning complexity of the resin side of things, but there are quite a few SLA printers around now, maybe inexpensive resins and good cleaning/curing processes are within reach.
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Old Jun 13, 2019, 06:44 PM   #90
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Amazon has the Nidouillet Creality Ender-3 3D Printer for a low $160.30 Free Shipping after Coupon Code: "FM73RLQF" (Exp Soon). This is about 30% off retail and is one of the lowest prices we've seen on this popular 3D printer this year.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...N&tag=tbpre-20
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