Official: "What did you do to your car today?" Thread

[lmchv]

My rims finally arrived and intalled them last sunday:

APR Flow Formed Wheels 19x8.5 Gunmetal + Continental ExtremeContact Sport 235/35R19





I think it's time to lower it

[Silent-Runner]

Originally Posted by lmchv

I think it's time to lower it

i have to admit it looks kinda ....strange, no offense

[Clockwork]

Originally Posted by lmchv

My wheels finally arrived and installed them last sunday:

Fixed.

Also what is the OEM size? Something seems off. Like they weren't properly sized, meaning the total diameter might be off, meaning your speedometer is going to be off.

[lmchv]

Originally Posted by Silent-Runner

i have to admit it looks kinda ....strange, no offense

yeah, it's a bit weird

Originally Posted by Clockwork

Fixed.

Also what is the OEM size? Something seems off. Like they weren't properly sized, meaning the total diameter might be off, meaning your speedometer is going to be off.

OEM is 225/45R17 17x7.5, but also come in 18".

OEM circumference is 1991mm, new circumference is 2032mm

[Nunz]

Minor lowering will be perfect. I wouldn't go too crazy though.. bit of fender gap is a good thing.

Looks good though! I don't think anything looks off besides the large fender gap.

[lmchv]

This is how it looks from the sides:




and this one looks better:



I want to lower it at least 1 inch.

Also, I will be changing the nuts with chrome finish ones as soon as the shop have them in stock, right now I'm using the stock ones

PD: I just noticed the first pic I shared looked odd because the car was still in jacks on the other side

[pax]

Ya thats a pretty low profile tire. If you are a hard driver you might want to put rim protectors on. They can be very discreet or colorful.

[lmchv]

Originally Posted by pax

Ya thats a pretty low profile tire. If you are a hard driver you might want to put rim protectors on. They can be very discreet or colorful.

yeah, I've thought about that, however I'm used to drive 225/45 for over a decade, no rims or tires damaged so far, I know my potholes

This 235/35 have 2/3 inches less profile

[Greasy]

Looks great in that last photo. Love those wheels!

If those first pics were right after they lowered it from the lift, then that can explain the gap. Takes a drive to level **** out in my experience.

Def get the spedo calibrated though.

[Silent-Runner]

looks better in the last shots, also another vote for speedo calibration.

[lmchv]

I have Carista, can I do that with it?, dont have a clue what to do

[Nunz]

You can use a convertor to tell you how much your speedo is off by. I wouldn't bother getting it re-calibrated. You'll be no more than 2mph slower than your speedo reads. You won't be faster. https://tiresize.com/speedometer-calibration/

I was running 255/35R18 my WRX (18x8.5). Stock of 235/45R17 if I remember correctly. I miss having those chunky tires .. so much grip ripping around corners

Wheels will be fine. APR makes good stuff. I was running reps (AVID.1) and hit quite a few unavoidable potholes .. never had an issue. I was running the same tires too. I'm exclusively Continental when it comes to rubber.

[lmchv]

Continental is great but expensive..., each tire was around $300

[Silent-Runner]

over here you'll get into big trouble if your speedo is off when trying to get your TÜV (similar to M.O.T. in the UK) or if your tiresize doesn't match the one in your papers. As far as i remember things in the states were much more on lax side, maybe depending on the state you live in, i guess.

[lmchv]

here in Peru it really does not matter, the yearly inspection does not check that, only the tires health.

[Silent-Runner]

yeah i already thought so

[ice]

Bought new tires.

[Elysian]

Installed the MX5Things auto windows and top upgrade on the Miata today.



https://youtu.be/cu9WZl32QWw

[logical]

Originally Posted by Elysian

Installed the MX5Things auto windows and top upgrade on the Miata today.



https://youtu.be/cu9WZl32QWw

Auto with car unlock or what are we looking at here

[Nunz]

Originally Posted by Silent-Runner

over here you'll get into big trouble if your speedo is off when trying to get your TÜV (similar to M.O.T. in the UK) or if your tiresize doesn't match the one in your papers. As far as i remember things in the states were much more on lax side, maybe depending on the state you live in, i guess.

Yeah that's some bullshit.. no clue why your government gives a **** what tire size you are using. That's ridiculous.

[Elysian]

Originally Posted by logical

Auto with car unlock or what are we looking at here

In stock form there's no auto roll down windows, there's no auto top actuation, and I'm limited to 6mph to take the top down. New setup gives me auto top in every situation, so only one button press instead of holding the switch, allows me to take the top down up to 30mph, and allows me to roll the windows down and take the top down or vice versa with the key fob. I know BMW has had that for a long time, which is the main reason I wanted it for my MX5, even my 2001 330ci had that feature. This setup gives me a ton more flexibility.

Another thing I added was a controller that keeps the car in ACC mode after I turn the engine off until I open the door or until 10 minutes passes, something I had grown accustomed to on the Audi and even my 2005 Jeep.

[Nunz]

My 2015 Malibu w/ 47k miles started giving me this humming sound from what seems like the front driver side. Of course, suspected wheel bearing. Jacked the car up, and all 4 wheels are tight as can be .. zero play.

Now I get the wild goose chase of thinking it's maybe just a bad tire, even though they're fairly new Continental DWS+. I'm going to rotate them today, and if the sound changes, then I know it's just a tire.

Horrible timing with the 8million things I need to get done on the house.

Edit: swapped the fronts, sound didn't change location at all. I'm thinking it might be the rear tires, or a wheel bearing, but I can't tell which, and since none of the tires have any play at all, I'd just be guessing.

Going to take it to a shop. Unfortunately I just don't have time for this and I can't spend a day troubleshooting this ****.

[Nunz]

Update on the humming.

I eventually said **** it, I'm doing it myself. I purchased a set of rotors and wheel bearings for the front-end. Got everything off on the Driver side, and one brake-pad had about 10% life left while the other had over 60%. Took a look at the caliper slide pins and they had zero lube on them. Last person who changed the brakes (before I owned the vehicle) was apparently a dick.

Got the rotor off, and started trying to pry the hub assembly off.. yeah, not happening after 7 years of NY/NJ winters. Completely rusted and seized on the axle. I tried a 6lb hammer, two full days of soaking in PB Blaster, chisel+hammer, flathead screwdriver+hammer, and I couldn't get it to budge. I gave up, put everything together, and took it to the shop that does my alignments.

Everything came out perfect, cost me $670 - I had them change all 4 rotors (used the 2 rotors I had already purchased), the wheel bearings on the front-end, brakes on all 4 (I didn't trust the work the last dipshit did), and called it a day. I did have a bad wheel bearing on the Driver side, and also the front rotors were torn up on the backside from the splash guard grinding on it. I bent it back myself while it was at the shop and should be good to go now. Looks like the last person that did work in there used the splash guard as leverage to pull the axle left/right, and it's a flexible metal .. dummy ended up bending it. I'm guessing it was just barely enough where it wasn't causing an audible sound but it had to have been touching considering how bad the rotor was on the driver side. When I say there was zero surface area left, and it was all rust/corrosion, I mean it.

Car is driving great again, nice and quiet cruising down the road. I washed her yesterday, cleaned the wheels up, and detailed the interior. Threw her ass in the garage

@Overclockn' - I still use Brad for oil. He's such a good dude .. we end up exchanging 4+ emails every time I order just to catch up.. lol.

[logical]

15% tint on the front windows

[AdamK47]

Ceramic coated the R8. Adam's Graphene Ceramic Coating. Took about 8 hours total. It's new paint. Still used dirt and swirl remover polish before application. The front grill was a pain. Had to use q-tips and a light polish to knock down the high areas before it fully cured.

[Lazy8s]

It doesn’t count unless you drive it occasionally between waxings

[KAC]

Installed Rim Guards.

[KAC]

Final look

[acroig]

Originally Posted by KAC

Final look

I'm not seeing anything, I could see the ones you deleted though.

[Silent-Runner]

Originally Posted by KAC

Final look

fixed that for ya....